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So you're saying bring it home, clean it up by hand, and then take it back to machine it?
My only concern with that, based on previous experiences with trying to clean badly rusted/oxidized metal, is that it might not be worth it. IE, if I'm going to spend $30 on 3M rotary sanding discs, plus it's going to take me 30 hours .. I'd rather just spend $40 to sand blast it and be done with it... know what I'm sayin? |
Ya, I know what your saying Vern. For that kind of $$$ have it BLASTED. Be sure to plug up the cyl. walls, would hate to have them pitted ! Blow out all the holes & have it hot tanked or at least, use a high pressure hose with soap (car wash) rince it very well & BLOW... clean it again. Dust & the blasting material will be everywhere. Spray walls with WD-40 or engine oil to keep it from getting surface rust, it will come on very fast. Mask off head surface & bottom end (unless your painting the pan also) ect... and you'll be a painting my friend. Have it very clean before assembly.
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Dan,
I agree with Kevin. It's a lot easier to clean it up now than it will be after the engine is machined and assembled. The paint process is a little different and could be done after. I personally wouldn't do the paint work until its at least machined. The easiest time would be when its in the shortblock stage, but unless your doing the finally assembly, whoever is woking on it could probably care less how nice your engine is going to look, and not take the precautions to keep it the way you want. Regardless, now is the time to get things looking the way you want. Lot easier now than to go back later and try to redo it. Nice car Kevin!! I'll be heading to Lonestar Tues to pick up my kit, finally. The anticipation is about to drive me crazzzy. Brad |
Brad, thanks.
In your gallery you just have the engine, are you going to get a whole kit from Lonestar I assume ? E-mail me for questions & answers ect.. just to chat. |
White powder coat will turn pink after a while. I have seen this first hand. It had turned pink in about two months.
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Brad that's a really nice engine. Will the bottom of the bellhousing/block plate have enough road clearance? I ended up trimming some off mine but it's an FFR with 4.5" clearance from ground to the framerails. The bottom of my oil pan sits flush with the bottom of the framerails. See how much further down the bell plate extends? I'm not sure what kind of clearance the Lonestar has either. Just someting to check maybe before dropping that beauty in. Good luck thats an awesome engine for sure!!! As for paint and polish I hand polished my intake and timing cover also. Polished the brass expansion tank. The engine block and heads are painted black with your basic high temp engine paint with a satin clear over it. G.
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FFR428
I was wondering about the clearance with the bellhousing also. Picking up my kit next week. I will probably have the engine in and out a couple of times before the final assembly and will check it at that time. That lip is pretty low, though. I saw your modifications in your gallery and may have to do the same thing. Priobe I've been using the Zoopseal for several months. It seems to work really well. I screwed up the first time I used it, and had to remove it and start over (didn't read the instructions very well). They have 2 kits, a starter kit and a master kit. I used the starter kit first, which is half the size, but wasted most of it because a mixed up too much of the catalyst mixure and didn't have enough stuff to coat. Its kind of expensive, but if it lasts as long as they say it does, it should be worth it in the long run. Just be sure and follow the instructions, though, if you use it. Brad |
Guys,
for the ultimate finish on your block.... First, put the block in the vat to remove the bulky grease and dirt. Next, a trip to the shot blaster, or sandblaster, but a shot blaster will make it look AWESOME. Next, take it to get powder coated. There are many color choices out there. BE SURE to get a reputable shop to do it. You MUST mask very carefully and plug EVERY hole. Get your balancer, pan, front cover, brackets.... all coated too. Mask off the hole in the balancer or you will not get it on the crank. If you don't want the powder coat, paint the block before assembly (again, mask off the decks, gasket surfaces...) Now, when you get finished machining, pressure wash it thouroughly and blow-dry with an air compresor. once you're thru with assembly, just wipe it down to clean off the handprints and assembly lube you spilled. It will look great. |
Shinny Black!
Today, I got to see my block all cleaned & machined with a fresh coat of black paint!It was time to give my engine builder the rest of the $$ to finish out my engine. I had forgotten how LARGE those cylinders were! WOW!
Everything else is new & aluminum! Today, I saw a pile of parts, and in two weeks they will become one. I'm STOKED! jdog:cool: P.S. Basic Black! |
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