Daytona coupe interior sound and heat insulation
 

In about 900 miles of Daytona coupe street test driving, one of the main "issues" that needs to be addressed is the reduction of interior noise level.

This past weekend, I borrowed a sound meter to measure interior noise levels. Keep in mind that the interior of the coupe is completly bare aluminum, so I was prepared for some high noise readings. I only got to do one test and the meter hit 99.5 dB(A) while crusing at about 45 mph. I didn't capture a measurement for a full throttle run, but it was significantly higher.

Whatever sound attenuation material that I use must be applied in a manner that does not detract from the original interior look (e.g. flat black paint for upholstery). This essentially means that I will be limited to insulating only hidden areas of the car (firewall, transmission tunnel, rear floor, rear quarter panel walls and perhaps the door skins).

A secondary issue is the reduction of interior heat (it was 102 degrees F the day that I was doing the noise tests which is one of the reasons for only one reading.) I don't know whether a single product can be equally good for both noise and heat reduction or whether it is a a compromise to obtain both.

Any suggestions on manufacturers of sound attenuation material that I could contact for this application.

Regrds,
Chuck

Chuck,

Have you thought to call McClusky and ask the question about how they insulate/sound deaden their original look Coupe with out sacrificing the vintage appearance in either the cockpit or engine Bay?

Let's talk Wednesday,

TR

Chuck,

Great to hear you've got the Coupe on the road!

Silicone foam heat insulation should also be pretty good acoustically. My supplier list includes D&H Heat Technology (216-725-5665) and Bisco Products (800-237-2068). Sorry - no links...

Tony,

I was at McCluskeys last week. They install A/C in the coupes!!

Nice to hear you're putting miles on her Chuck. :)

Tony, one thing that will help with the heat problem is some wings that attach to the front windshield posts. the windshield pushes the air away from the car and completely misses the two scoops in the rear side windows. These wings run parallel with the posts (verticle) and are hardly noticable. They force air to make the turn at the windshield post and enter your side window and side scoop. Also if your coupe has a hollow rear spoiler you can create an air exhaust vent through the rear bulkhead up into the spoiler.Cut a slot horizontally along the width of the spoiler.It will end up looking like a 3rd brake light opening (a small slit).If your Kamm back has the kidney shaped detents do not use them for exhaust vents.there were some postings where engine exhaust was being sucked into the car. good luck on the sound prob...
Here is the email of russ thompson who makes the A pillar wings. rtcobra@comcast.net

Chuck:

From the Corvette forum, the suggested remedy for the heat next to the shifter/linkage tunnel and the road noise and exhaust sound from the rear area, especially with an aftermarket exhaust such as the Borla Stingers:

Frost King Duct Insulation, self adhesive Foil and Foam. Each roll is 12" wide, 1/8" thick and 15 ' long,can be purchased at Home Depot and Lowe's for approx $15, SKU FV516

Packaging indicates:

* Use on both Heating and A/C Ducts
* Conforms to sharp corners
* Insulates and stops vibrations

While I have not installed, others have mentioned it does make a significant difference and is about 95% effective as the custom insulation kits which cost considerably more.

Don

Chuck,

We used 2 types of heat and sound deadening materials from Soundcoat. http://www.soundcoat.com/aircraft.htm
A bit pricy but they work well. For the footboxes we used the foil/foam on a false panel than we attached to the inside of the footbox. Works well and looks fine.

Hope this helps, FIA Mike