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XXQQQME 09-03-2004 07:15 AM

How Low Can You Go?
 
I now have all the pieces to start re-assembly of my drive line.

New flywheel, clutch disc, pressure plate, modular bellhousing and throw-out bearing. All of these items are Mcleod except the t/o bearing which is a Tilton. (Mcleod T/O Bearing for sale if interested send PM)

Last night I started fitting some of the pieces together, namely the block plate (part of the modular bellhousing assy.). I found that it needed to be trimmed near the starter register hole to clear the chassis (West Coast). Even after this, I could only get it in place thru the engine compartment. Fitting of the bellhousing itself remains to be seen, perhaps tomorrow.

Anyway, my first question is this:

For those of you who have a McLeod Modular Bellhousing, was it necessary to trim the lower part of the bolt flange to establish reasonable ground clearance? %/

My second question:

The bellhousing has an access hole for the upper starter bolt. It seems to me that if the starter needed to be replaced and the upper bold/nut happened to drop into the bellhousing, the drive shaft, tranny and bellhousing would have to be disassembled to remove said bolt/nut. Seems like a lot of work to me.

With that being said, have any of you (who have this kind of set-up) welded the upper starter nut to the inside of the bellhousing to avoid the disaster of dropping it in the bellhousing should the starter need replacement?

Any thoughts on the above???

Thanks!

casaleenie 09-03-2004 08:55 AM

OOOPS, Sorry,

I thought this was a John Kerry thread... :D

XXQQQME 09-03-2004 11:00 AM

casa,
very good! you are so quick!

Kim

2KWIK4U 09-03-2004 09:42 PM

Kim
I just finished installing the Mcloed modular on my 427 SO. I'm not sure if the 460's are the same , mine was part# 8740-03. With regard to the starter hole, my block plate was tapped for the blind hole, top-left hole when looking from the rear, 3/8" I believe. Initally, I threaded the bolt in from behind, like a stud sticking out the front, but decided that may be problem if the bolt backed out and fell down inside the housing. I ended up just installing it normally in the tapped hole. It held fine when I torqued the bolt. I also had to "notch" the bellhousing to get it to fit inside my Lonestar frame, (1/2" x 4") just up to the bottom starter hole. Had to remove one of the outer retaining bolts since the hole no longer existed. As far as ground clearance, I believe that I will have more than enough clearance since the bottom of the bellhousing is higher than both my front crossmember and oil pan, but I haven't had the full weight of the car on the suspension yet to know what the actual clearance will be. I have some pictures in my gallery of the modifications but they are a little far away. If you want let me know and I can take a close-up and post it since I have remove my engine while I get the body ready for installation. Hope this helps. Good luck.

Brad

XXQQQME 09-15-2004 10:59 AM

2Kwik,

My modular bellhousing assy. number is the same, except it's an "01" instead of "04" . . . I have a Toploader tranny. Was just wondering if the bellhousing itself has an access hole on the same center as the upper starter bolt?

I welded a nut inside the belhousing for the starter and it works just fine. You would not believe the "labotomy" I had to perform on both the block plate and bellhousing to get them to fit. Remember that engine is installed and I must get the block plate and bellhousing in the car from underneath. What a pain in the butt!!! I carved most of the "side" mounting holes off both pieces, but managed to get them in the car with plenty of fastening holes/bolts. Works fine!

Got everything back together last week. After driving up and down the driveway a few times to test, I notice fluid dripping from my new bellhousing. I check the slave cyl resorvoir to find that it's level has dropped a considerable amount. I know everything is tight and my pedal stop is adjusted properly. This time I followed all the directions to a tee! I have no idea what the heck is wrong! I'm taking it to be worked on by a professional this time. I'm not crazy about crawling under this car while it's jacked up so high . . . I don't really have the correct tools (lift, tranny jack etc) to be doing this kind of work. Hopefully by early October I'll have all the kinks worked out.

Wish me luck! and thanks for your reply.

Kimba:JEKYLHYDE :JEKYLHYDE :JEKYLHYDE

trularin 09-15-2004 12:17 PM

Where are you taking it Kim?

XXQQQME 10-18-2004 11:28 AM

I took it over to Slim's Alignment and Hot Rod Shop in Eastpoint. I'm working with Dave over there.

Sorry it took so long to answer!


Now for the good stuff!

I have the car delivered to Slim's on a flatbed . . . I have AAA and inside 5 miles is free.

Once it's dissassembled, it appears that the lower (pressure) banjo fitting is leaking. I plead my case to Kirk at Tilton without success. (warranty work as the brand new Tilton T/O bearing only has a trip up and down my driveway on it!) and YES I have a pedal stop!

Anyway, the Tilton instructions don't include torque recommendations, they only say "don't over tighten" . . . pretty slick way to avoid warranty work, eh!
I am told that Tilton has a distributor in Michigan! It's in Watervliet, near Benton Harbor . . . 190 miles from my house. It's called Lane Automotiive. This place is great! Found it with no problems.
Delivered new banjo fittings ($28.99ea) to Slim's on Sat. On Monday, I get a call from Dave at Slim's. He's got the new fittings on and is now re-assembling the tranny/bell housing.
He confirms my suspicion that the bell housing "spacer" is not required for my application, however the "cap" cannot be fastened to the bell housing without the spacer! Bolt holes won't line up. I'm told that McLeod provides a "cap" that will mount without the spacer. . . . I'm trying to connect with Red at McLeod at the time of this writing. . . I'll keep you posted. Whew, what a PITA!!!!! Can't something go smooth just once!!!!!
:CRY: :JEKYLHYDE **) %/ :mad: :(

trularin 10-18-2004 11:55 AM

Kim, it is like in the low 50s during the day and in the mid 30s at night. Are you planning on doing any driving yet this year?

I got new seats and am about to wrap things up for the year. I think I am done for 2004.

What are ya doing?

XXQQQME 10-18-2004 12:33 PM

Tru,

I'm ready to put on the freakin' Santa suit an' drive the s.o.b. in the snow!

It's supposed to be in upper 60's on Wed. . . If I have the car back, I'm driving it! Ought to run really great in the cooler weather.

I spoke with Red from McLeod about my situation and he was very helpful! I'm having the correct parts sent UPS 1 day to Dave at Slim's. Should get her back together by Wed. Anyway, this whole driveline thing has given me countless grey hairs and sleepless nights! Back when my Cobra was driveable, gas was $1.60/gal . . . just kidding.

Anyway, I'm going to keep driving as long as the roads are dry. So if you see "Santa" driving around in a blue Cobra with white skunk stripes, it's probably me!

Happy Holidays!!!
Kimba

trularin 10-19-2004 07:32 AM

I'm workin on the car Wed.

I got to get the little things I wanted to do, -- done.

If I don't talk to ya, happy holidays!!!!!!

BTW, Inline tube has a great collection of plumbing and they are local. Shelby TWP.

:3DSMILE:


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