Update to the leaky rear main problem...PICS!
 

For those who were following this and helping me before I apologize for the repeated topic, but I thought that starting a new thread may yeild more replys...For those who haven't here's a breif overview...I suspected my rear main seal of being leaky so I ripped everything apart...There was quite a bit of oil on my driveway after idling there for about 15 seconds (about a 4 inch puddle)...
Now that I have everything apart and I have taken a look; here is my conclusion...(or my problem I should say)...Judging by the amount of oil that was on my driveway I suspected a very bad seal...However, the seal in fact looks fine; it's a little oily at the bottom but not TOO bad...Also, with a leak that bad I expected to see oil all over the flywheel, clutch and pressure plate...but there is little to none, maybe a touch on the flywheel but that's it...With this in mind I'm lead to believe that the leak is an oil pan gasket leak, and not a main seal...BUT there is still a bit of oil inside of the bell housing?

I've made a cardomain site of some pictures I took of the bell housing, main seal, etc. etc. so I was hoping someone with a little more knowledge on this could take a look and give me their opinions on the issue...Otherwise I think I'll just go ahead and replace both the main seal and the oil pan.
The link is http://www.cardomain.com/id/leakyseal
Thanks for your time!

--Dave.

This farr in I'd go for another seal.Looks like it may be leaking between pan and seal.Most seal need something to seal the outside.A long time ago .My service manager went to the trades show in Las Vegas. Chicgo Rawhide was doing a demonstration.They said three out of five seal that were replaced were actually leaking outside the seal. They were installing and removing seals and looking at the outside painted area.Paint not suffed not touching.I use Permatex type 2 or blue silicone.Only on outside .I was told two things will eat a seal in a heartbeat. ,first one is an eskimoe the other is Permatex.Be carefull.Oh , things need to be clean and dry before appling.

The actual seal surface (the lip that rides on the crank) should have a light amount of oil applied before installation to prevent it from rubbing on a dry suface at start up. The mention above of putting some sealant on the outside of the seal after it is installed is good advice. Apply it to the parting line of the pan/block and seal, wipe it on with your finger after removing all traces of oil with lacquer thinner or carb/brake cleaner.

Rick

I am replacing the rear main seal on my 410 FE & what side does the actual seal surface (the lip that rides on the crank) face? Towards the inside or outside of the block?

Thanks
Ed

Towards the inside. Leave about 3/8" of the circular seal "standing up/out" of the main cap on one side and the same with the portion of the seal in the block on the other side. Then put a dap of silicone or "The Right Stuff" (orange/black areosol can made by Permatex, much better than silicone) on the ends of the seal and assemble. The idea behind this is to prevent the parting line of the seal from being exactly on the parting line of the cap thus helping eliminate a potential spot for leakage (the ends of the seal butting together). Take your time, clean all surfaces with carb cleaner or lacquer thinner. Put a slight amount (with your finger)of the sealer on the mating surface of the block/cap to eliminate another source of leaks.

Good luck



Rick

Dave,
I went to the photo site and see 4 photos of an intake manifold. how do I see the rest of the pictures?
Steve

To find oil leak........
 

Dave,
To find oil leak,
Pull distributor out and spin oil pump with a oil pump primer, counterclockwise with a 3/8 drill. Have someone watch and see where oil is coming from.
Perry.:cool: