Club Cobra - Clutch "issues"

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This is getting ridiculous. I replaced the slave cylinder and bled the system. It sure looks like I have max clutch travel and when the engine is off with clutch depressed, I can shift the gears freely. But when I fire her up and depress the clutch, it's as though I have no clutch at all. She just tries to move forward as I attempt to put her in gear. I don't get it.

Tony Radford The clutch disc sticks to either the flywheel or the pressure plate for the first couple of times until some heat is there. The iron and steel bond togeather after it has been hot, just like a funny car clutch. It's normal, Like I said, get rid of that setup and go with a 3400lb normal hi-po clutch. Rick Lake

Tony - when was the last time you (or your shop) aligned the bellhousing to the engine? It took me 7 hrs. 38 min. and 27 sec. to do mine but the results were great - .004 off total circumference. My lakewood started out at .014 from the factory. I doubt this is your main issue but it certainly can go a ways to making life a lot easier on your output shaft and crank, rear seal, bearings, etc. That's why they (pros) charge the high rates to get it right from the start rather than just bolting it up stock - do you even know how far off your bellhousing is now? It takes about 20 minutes, if that, to determine your misalignment - the correcting takes the most time.

Rick, that makes a lot of sense because that's exactly what it seems is happening. If that IS the case, I wonder how I could get the disk dislodged? I can get it into gear, then fire her up and driver her up the driveway. Do you think that if I just work with it a bit it will break loose?

Tony, I'm not sure about the alignment. Where ya been lately?

What is the process of checking the bellhouing alignmentand how do you adjust it. Thanks

Tony - what you are describing happened to me once a long time ago on a hot rod I built. Turned out that I got oil or brake fluid on the clutch disk, causing it to stick with the engine running, when it gets warm. I'm with Rick Lake on this one too. I think you are trying to put too much clutch into your car.
My choice would be a 12- bolt Borg & Beck "pro" 3- finger pressure plate, about 3000 lbs rated. One of the many advantages of a Borg & Beck pressure plate is it doesn't need as much throwout bearing travel to actuate the pressure plate, like in the other camps. Fact is, most likely you will have to put a peddle stop in to keep the T.O. bearing from going too far, and bending a finger, giving you clutch chatter.
A 12- bolt pressure plate is MUCH more stable than the common 6-bolt pressure plate. Less heat, greater wear on the disc, and lb. per lb. in the ratings between the two, the 12-bolt will hold better when the ratings are the same. Plus most "pro" clutches are rebuildable at the factory they are built at. You will need a 12-bolt flywheel though if you choose to go this way.
Hope you find your problem soon.
cobrashock