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Need advice to remove E-M body
I have an Everett-Morrison car built around 1995 by a previous owner. I'm giving serious consideration to removing the body to facilitate repainting and work on the chassis. After the body dolly is ready, all the body to chassis connections are removed and I'm ready to lift the body, are there any particular precautions to take to be sure the body isn't damaged during the lift? Any other advice?
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I'm not an expert here, but I do recall seeing the Factory Five people recommend building a wood "bridge" that connects the front cowl to the rear half (just aft of where the seats go). That way you minimize the body flex front-to-back so that the middle section (at the doors) doesn't cave in. That's all I can help you with here, Tommy. Good luck...that's a big job!
-Deano |
Tommy,
I have done this removal twice in the last year on two different E-M cars. Remove and bag and tag all removable parts from body prior to removal from chassis. Take measurements and pictures of how body parts are installed now for future reference. Remove all movable body parts from body with fasteners idetified for putback. After checking and rechecking body is ready to remove you and a freind can lift rear of body up from chassis and then front of body up from chassis to insure no attachements are still connected. When body is ready to remove use at least 6 healthy men or 8 if you can . Make sure windshield is removed and stored prior to body removal. This may help ,if any other questions please inquire Bonos |
Tommy,
Bono's is right on. Especially about the number of guys to help lift! EM is one of the most rigid and heavy bodies on the market. NO support will be needed, referring to Deano's post above. The last one we lifted off and on and off and on, and, etc., we did it with four very healthy and stout guys...It WAS NOT enough ;) I think I hurt myself! DV... |
DV -
Thanks for the advice. I know this body is plenty stout from all the time I've spent leaning on the fenders. But the original builder told me it has a specially ordered "lightweight" body. He ordered that option because the car was originally built exclusively for SCCA track use. I suppose that means I'll need to brace the body to be careful, and get a lot of help for lifting too. |
Tommy,
Have you had the car on scales? What is the total weight? Scott |
Scott -
The total weight including the driver (170#) is 2570#. That was with 3/4 tank of fuel. |
Tommy- thanks
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Tommy,
I'm not bragging but I put my E-M boddy on by myself! Well, my 70 year old father was there to help line it up. The body is so strong that you can put nylon straps from the 4 mounting points on the floor of the cockpit to a central point. HAve the rears a bit longer as the center of gravity is up near the dashboard. All this was hooked to a come-along that was attached to a sturdy beam in my garage. I jacked the body up, rolled the chassie under it and lowered it back down. Use a floor jack to raise it up the first couple of inches. This will be a good way to tell if anything is still hooked up. Then you can put eye bolts down through those 4 mounting holes. Doing it this way I would leave the doors on and keep them latched during the lift. I think I still have pictures if you want to see them. Harevy R. |
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