Radiator overflow question
 

Ok, I have a problem. On one of my vehicles I have noticed a small amout of water and anti freeze lately after driving it but couldn't locate the leak. Yesterday I found it easily as the darn tube fell out. The small tin tube in the filler neck that the overflow hose hooks to fell out. After cleaning and brushing it, I see that it has a very small spot of what looks like solder on the top part. I don't know if this is the way they fasten in why it can't be put back and re-soldered. I called a local radiator shop and was told that I have to buy a new radiator. That is asinine to have to spend $400 dollars for a dam 4 cent piece. I know some of you have ran into this before, so what did you do to get that piece to stay in?

Any suggestions? :CRY:

Ron :confused:

Ron,
I don't really understand why they can't solder or weld it.%/

I had a hole rubbed in my Griffin crossflow radiator when the insulation in one of the top brackets wore out. They fixed it up with no problem at all.

Before I would pop for another radiator I would try some JB Weld first.


Did you find that Constant Voltage Regulator ?

Fred,

I have spent an hour upside down and trying to find that regulator and I can't see anything at all like that up there. But I am getting old and it is harder for me to really do this. Also this darn Comet has a steel plate that goes from the dash to the firewall and is about 6/8 indhes wide. It hides everything above it and what a rats nest of wires. I can barely get my fingers up to where the speedometer cable connects and I am afraid to try and move to much as those wires are old and the last thing I need to do is break some of them. Weather is cool and raining now so I will try again when it is warm. But it is definately a temperature sensitive thing as when it is really cold, it takes about 30/40 seconds for the gauges to start working. Except the gas gauge. If I just turn the key on it will read but the minute I start the car it drops back to zero and then they all come on at once, including the wipers and heater motor. But once the car is warm they will kick on within a couple of seconds. There are advantages to living in a small area, but getting any repair work done is not one of them. Just as with the radiator. I couldn't believe that a radiator shop couldn't solder that dam 4 cent piece back in and told me I have to buy a new radiator as those aren't repairable once they come ou. Right, $385 dollars for a radiator and that because of a little piece of tin that won't stick. I am fast getting sick of cars and an area that you can't get anything repaired in.Everything has to be replaced new and it has to be ordered on top of that as they stock noting but lug nuts around here. Just venting some as in the morning I have to get one of my little Poms to the vet in Redding and if I can't use tha car then I have to get a Taxi and that is $65 dollars round trip for a 15 minute drive. AArrrggg :CRY:

Ron :rolleyes: %/

Ron,

If the radiator is a brass unit, just fix it yourself. Propane torch, soldier, and some rosin. Any hardware store has this stuff.

If alloy, use JB weld.

Make sure that the joint is clean is both cases.

All,

Thanks for the help. Tried JB weld and it set up and then got soft as soon as the water got hot. I let it set for two days.
Today I called a friend to come over and help me hold the darn little tube as I couldn't hold it and solder.

Richard,

I did exactly what you said and it seems to be in there very well now. Tomorrow will tell as I have to take one of my little dogs to the vets and that will build up plenty of pressure. I have just logged on and read yor advise and that is exactly what I did. Cleaned everything right down to the metal, Jack held the tube and solder while I heated it and burned the hair off one of his fingers. We put solder around the tube, pushed it in and let it set a few mintues. Then we put some more around the outside where they had originally had a little. I don't think that radiator was ever properly soldered as there was hardly no trace of solder on the tube or in the hold. :)

Ron :rolleyes:

Ron, another point to consider, the overflow tube is useful to connect to either a recovery tank or a vent tube to vent excess coolant to the bottom of the car instead of the top of the radiator. Even if it vents coolant when hot, it shouldn't cause short-term problems with your cooling or cooling system. Without it (or if it leaks at the joint) it vent okay but will suck in air (instead of coolant from the recovery tank) when it cools down. Test it by raising the tube to the recovery tank straight up above the radiator cap and fill it with water. If your joint doesn't leak you're probably okay.

JB weld gets soft at 200 degrees. Marine Tex or similar high temp epoxy can be used to 450 degrees plus.