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Oil Cooler Thermostat
Hi everyone. My winter project is to install an oil cooler in my 351W powered Venom. Anyone out there using an oil cooler thermostat such as the Canton Racing one? I am interested in where you mounted it, and any other suggestions as to how you routed the hoses. I am using a billet sandwich filter adapter type setup.
Thanks! |
I have the Perma Cool type and it has worked great. I really don't need one here as hot as it is during driving season, but it came with the kit. I mounted mine on the left hand front side of the car across from the radiator and out of sight fromnabove. Not trying to hide it but that was just the easiest place to put it between the filter and cooler. It isn't nearly as nice as the billit ones, but it also didn't cost so much.
Ron :) |
I am using the Canton oil cooler thermostat. I like the fact that it opens at about 215. This is just when the oil is hot enough to boil off the water that has accumulated from condensation. I also installed the Canton Accusump. I am happy with the way they work. I really don't think the oil cooler has opened that often, but I am sure it has a few times in the city. There are pictures of the installation in my gallery.
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I'm also using the Canton thermostat and 1qt Accusump. Photos in my gallery, look for "oil and coolant plumbing". The Accusump is mounted on the front cross brace and plumbs into a T on top of the oil filter. The Accusump is used as a pre-oiler. The thermostat is mounted where a remote oil filter mount would go on the front of the engine and plumbs into a standard sandwich plate.
I choose the Canton thermostat for the same reason as David, it's opening temp. Most of the others open aroun 180 and I don't feel that's high enough for the condensates and contaminants to boil off. I can watch the oil temp gauge stop climbing when the thermostat opens although I'm in a relatively cool area (Oregon) it still gets pretty warm in the summer. In the cooler winter weather the oil temp never gets high enough to open the t-stat. DonC |
Thanks guys, just what I needed.
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I am running a 351W and use the MOCAL sandwich type thermostat adapter as shown in the photo below. If the 1" thickness of the adapter causes a clearance problem use the FL-300 oil filter that is shorter than the FL1A. Thermostat opens at 180* to route oil through the cooler. My AN oil cooler lines screw into the adapter and everything works very well. This thermostat should be a direct bolt-in replacement for the sandwich style piece that you are currently running.
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DonC,
I attempted to PM you on this topic for details of your FE/ERA Accusump and oil t'stat installation but your cannot receive PM's. If not too much bother, you can PM me and would appreciate any detail you care to share on the subject. Looked in your gallery but can't see the photos you refer to. Thanks, |
Chas:
Sorry about not being able to reach me. You can get me at: CWILL1958@COMCAST.NET for email. Be more than happy to talk to you about it. Photo below: http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...umbing-med.jpg DonC |
DonC,
Will contact you next day or so but before I do, please go out in garage and put some hose clamps on that upper hose. %/ :CRY: Thanks for the great pic and your time. Will bother you soon. Chas |
Chas:
The hose has clamps. These photos were taken at ERA as they were putting the engine in so what you're seeing isn't the finished product. Look forward to hearing from you. DonC |
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I also noticed that MOCAL sells an "I" adapter (see link below), but I'm not sure how to hook that particular unit up. http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/mocal.htm I'm just trying to figure out what's the least path of resistance to adding a thermostat to my existing system. Thanks for the help! -Dean |
DonC, SuperHart,
Can you guys give me some details on the hose connection. I noticed SuperHart has a hose going into his oil pan. Does that come from the cooler outlet? Thanks, this is all really helpful. |
Mocal now makes a sandwhich type thermo with 200 degree opening. You can get them from Bat, Inc.
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Dean,
I used the adapter with the thermostat in it like that one for about a year and it was good. I finally went to the remote filter location because I wanted to use a full size filter and also it is much easier to change without pouring hot oil all over me. I have my remote unit mounted on the front cross member in front of the engine and the filter hangs straight down and is very easy to get to. Just make sure that you get the in and out on the units correct as the filters have a butterfly type unit in them to stop oil from flowing backwards when you shut the engine off. Most units will be marked with arrows or the paper that comes with them will give you a diagram of how to hook them up, including the thermostat. Ron :) |
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Thanks for outlining how you have it all hooked up. -Dean |
Dean,
The thermostat is between the filter and cooler. Mine lets a small amount of oil through when I start so I don't get air bubbles in the cooler from the hot oil hitting cold oil when it opens. I am going to attach the diagram from my paper to this post and the E side goes toward the Engine and the C side goes to the Cooler. I physically attached mine on the drivers side fender inner wall almost straight across from the radiator edge and it is out of sight. You can mount it anywhere you want that is easy for you to get your lines to it as long as you don't reverse it. |
Ron, thank you so much...this is exactly what I was looking for!
Best regards, -Dean |
I have installed the oil cooler itself, sans plumbing and oil filter adapter. In my Venom/351W, there is not enough clearance to run a full size filter with the sandwich adapter. I am going to install a remote filter to remedy this problem. The Canton billet aluminum adapter has the extra input/output ports for the cooler machined right into it. Also, for anyone interested, the oil cooler cowling that Finish Line sells for use with the Mocal 16 row cooler on FFR cars will fit into a Venom with minor modifcations. You will need a riveting tool, a pair of tin shears and some extra aluminum flashing to do the job. A 1.5 inch strip of flashing rivetted along the top front of the cowling extends it to the right length to come up nicely to the edge of the fiberglass at the top of the lower opening. Also, you need to clip the bottom corners of the cowling. Thanks again to all who responded.
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MrMagoo,
In the picture that I posted above, that is basically the way my hook up goes. I have the remote filter mount on a cross bar in front of the engine and down low. The thremostat blocks all but just a very little oil flow until the oil is hot by runing it from E -1 up and back through E - 2. Then the valve closes and all oil is routed through my big oil cooler. You need just a little oil flow to the cooler to avoid air bubbles from the hot oil hitting the cold all at once. Ron :) |
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