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Head Bolt Torque
Putting the 302ci back together, so I need to know.......
Need the correct torque for the upper and lower (the same?) headbolts? Also, do they need to be step up in torqueing, start at 60lbs and then another round to 70lbs? They are iron heads, believe they are '87, and the block is a '74.... Much appreciate the help......:) |
sequence
Hi,
Normally you would torque the bolts in 3 steps. 30 ft/lbs 50 ft/lbs 70 ft/lbs start in the middle and work out in a circle, all bolts the same torque.Put a dab of oil on the threads and under the bolt head so there is no friction. Perry.:cool: |
High Plains Drifter is correct, 3 step torquing is a good idea. It helps pull the head down evenly, but I would add one additional step. Some of the gasket makers reccomend torquing the top row of bolts to 80#. This combats the tendancy of the head lifting as the intake manifold is tightened down. Good fasteners, clean, flat surfaces, good gaskets and you shouldn't have any difficulties. Be sure to use thread sealer on the bottom studs/bolts where they screw into the block as they must seal the cooling system too.
Rick |
Should we re-torque after some initial mileage?
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Regarding Re- torque
Some head gaskets require retorquing others do not. I depends on materials they are made of. Usually they will include instructions to do so if required. Rick |
Also need to know the correct torque for the rocker arms?
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I use 80 pounds bolts and 90 pounds ( with lube ) on studs.
Check with ARP and their App chart. |
Quote:
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I like the teflon over the "white paste" for the sealer.
I have not had a blown head gasket either, but I also spray the gasket with high tack ( I probably spelled that wrong ). I think it has a copper compound in it. :3DSMILE: |
Fel-Pro says use no sealant on head gaskets? Even has it stamped on the gasket.
This will be my first time using Fel-Pro and I was always under the impression you needed to use a gasket sealer on head gaskets. Also the say don't re-torque? Any insights or help? trularin, like in white teflon tape? I'm a FNG when it comes to this stuff. |
GR:
Do just what it says. Are you using 1011-1 or 1011-2? Be sure to read the stamped impression "This end forward". You will have to install one gasket upside down to get the stamping to the front of the block on one bank of cylinders, this is how the circulation is achieved throughout the block. Good product+ good fasteners+ proper torque procedure=no problems! Rick |
GR you have mail.
Rick |
Liquid teflon, ARP and GM make the best stuff I have used.
I like to seat the studs using the dual nut method and then coat the top threads with ARP assembly lube for threads. Three step torques. The last one should be your final, 80 or 90. Make sure your washers are coated as well. Wish I knew ahead of time, I'd send you a tube of teflon. P.S. I have never had a problem spraying the head gaskets, but you need to decide. |
Oh crap, make sure you follow the tightening order!
Rick, do you know the order for Gary? |
This site has the sequence.........scroll down
Rick http://www.worldcastings.com/tech/WindsorJrTech.pdf |
Rick, if you sent the e-mail thru CC I never recieved it. Try here: hc38t@msn.com.
Trularin, I know the head tightening sequence on the sb, but thanks for your concern.:) Liquid teflon? ARP or GM any part numbers? Where I live the nearest and best speed shop is 60 miles away, a good 3-4 hr RT depending on traffic. There is a GM dealer about 20 minutes away though. I had a valve retainer fail and bent the intake valve on #3. pulled the top end last weekend. Today we pulled the engine. Tore it down, thankfully there was no damage to the lower end. We are going to replace the #3 rod bearings. Install a new cam, new aluminum heads, Edlebrock RPM Performers, timing chain. I'm not after super hipo and I know there are other heads and cams out there but for the $ this works for me. I'm going to be using the 1011-2 gaskets, recommended by Edlebrock tech support. Thanks |
S Beaudry, sorry I hi-jacked your thread%/
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