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CSX Body: How to attach to Hi-Tech chassis?
Can anyone tell me by looking on my gallery page what steps I should take to get this stinkin' body on the Hi-Tech chassis?!
My main question concerns the door jam area, should the lip around the door jam area be cut off. It currently makes a channel. Should it be cut off to make an 'L' shape or go down over the carpet? Once this problem is solved I will be ready to start the itchy part, body work. |
Put your question on CSXINFO.NET I think Kris Kinkaid will have a good answer for you. (It's his website.) He does visit this forum but you may get a faster response from him on his website.
John |
This topic begs the answer to a different question.....what brand kitty litter is that? Is it replica kitty litter or original kitty litter?
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If it fits like my body fits my frame at that point, it should wrap around the door tube, between the 3/4" tubing and the aluminum under the carpet. Once it is in place, there should be an aluminum channel piece that covers the jam area and laps over the carpet. I will need to be formed to fit the door jamb.
Don't cut the body channel at that point. That is what holds the body tight to the chassis frame at that point. |
Three Peaks, the problem with the channel around the door sil - it is not allowing me to get the body to fit down on the chassis. It doesn't want to go down all the way when I try to force it down over the tube frame and the carpeted alum panel. Maybe I should cut off some of the fiberglass to relieve the pressure.
blykins, that is 'REAL' kitty litter from Sam's club! |
Is the problem that the tubing is too large to fit into the channel or that it isn't formed to match the door jamb on the body?
On mine it is very snug and it doesn't go all the way down, but the body fits well enough to be able to fasten it to the chassis at the bottom where it wraps around. (but just barely) |
Body on chassis
Three Peaks:
The problem with the body is the channel is not wide enough to accommodate the chassis tube AND the carpeted alum panel as shown in the photo on my gallery. The top of the interior alum panel is riveted to the frame tube and then angles outward as it goes down toward the floor of the car. Someone told me to cut the lip off the body so it would be an 'L' shape. That would relieve the pressure and make it fit but you said the downward lip or channel adds strength to the body (and that is the weakest part of the body). I think if I just shave off enough of the lip to make it fit I can retain some of the strength and some of the pressure. |
I wouldn't cut the body lip there. Pry back the carpet and drill out the rivets for the aluminum. Then slip the fiberglass body channel between the aluminum and the chassis tube and let the aluminum set on the cockpit side of the body channel and rivet it back in place.
Then, you'll need to make up an aluminum channel to fit over the door jamb and carpet to protect it. It will be much stronger and support that portion of the door jamb and frame chassis this way. It isn't designed to fit over the carpet and aluminum, it is designed to be put in place before the aluminum tub is rivetted in place. |
I see these are some old threads but if you need any help or have questions on the Hi-tech's feel free to drop me a line I have alot of experience with them.
Mike NOSMS |
body on chassis
NOSMS,
Thanks for the reply. I saw your post by accident because the thread is old. How would you go about my build? Here's what I was thinking: Get the drivetrain on the chassis (Hi-Tech) and then start body (CSX) work off the car, get it into primer and do the final body fit on chassis. Then paint it. Or finish the body work while it is on the chassis and squeeze the drivetrain in. Do you know if there are any fitment problems using a CSX body on a Hi-Tech chassis? I ask because it doesn't seem to fit without forcing the body in some areas onto the chassis, especially around the door openings. Your help/advise is much appreciated! |
Disregard. John
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I would do install the body and fit everything then do your paint and body work. Install the drive train last. It is a little tricking dropping the motor in after the paint, but I hated cleaning everything after paint. Painter loved it as his job was easier. As for the body fit, if the tubes don't match up and I am sure the will be off, two different supplier, don't force it. Move the tubes to support the body without putting pressure on it. It will save you the grief of cracks later on. Also make sure the suspension with wheels, windshield, etc. all fit before you go crazy with the paint work in case you need to move the body around. I know, I make it sound simple and it is after you do 50 or 60 of them. Just take your time and it will all come togather.
Let me know if you need anything else. Mike |
Body fit
So the body should set down on the chassis with no need to apply pressure or force anything? I need to trim off some fiberglass and maybe that will relieve some of the tension.
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If it is close you can remove some fiberglass yo just don't want the body to be loaded with pressure when you bond it on.
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