Accusump Questions
 

Ok - so I’ve got the plumbing done - t is right before the return into the engine. A couple of things that someone may have some idea for.

1. I took the car out after getting the sump filled with oil... oil pressures were significantly higher for the first 5-10 minutes of my drive. My normal
(pre-sump) pressure at idle is 20-25, and now was sticking like glue at 40. Then I got on it on an onramp, and it got back to normal - 35-40ish while at
3000+ and 20-25 at idle. I have the epc valve (20-25psi), and when I shut the car down, the sump pressure was around 35. Not sure how I could have
increased pressure - unless the sump continues to preoil for awhile adding with the normal engine flow? I would have assumed the valve would shut off...

2. Well - I'm a bit disappointed as I cruised back in,
it appears I have a leak somewhere. I put teflon only on the NPT fittings, and not on the AN fittings - and thought I got the AN fittings tight but not too tight (hard to do with so little room to manuver a wrench.
Now that it looks like spaghetti there - anyone have a good way of finding exactly where it is? It appears to be right under the mass of my fittings (where the t is...) I have no choke on the engine so I got to sit in it
until its warmed up, and I don’t want to go feeling for hot oil once the thing can idle on its own... someone's got to have a good idea, right?

Thanks
Nathan

Be a man.....feel for hot oil.......

Roscoe

Nathan -

1. When the engine oil system has more pressure than the oil in the Accusump, oil flows into the Accusump until the pressures are equalized. When the engine oil system pressure drops, oil under pressure from the Accusump is forced back into the system. If you rev your engine so the oil pressure in the system AND the Accusump is 55 PSI, and then let it drop back to idle, it will take a while before all the higher pressure oil in the Accusump forces its way back into the engine. During that time, your oil pressure will read higher than it did before you installed the Accusump.

2. I too had a problem with an oil leak from an AN fitting that I thought was tight enough. A little extra torque solved the problem. .. It never occured to me to get under the car while it was running. I just cleaned all the fittings, ran the engine for a few minutes, shut it off, and checked to see which fitting was oily.

Good luck.

Hose off the fittings with brake clean---then run engine --shut off and locate the leak

Jerry

If I am having trouble with AN fittings, is it worth trying the use of some aluminum crush washers to help solve the problem?

I wouldn't do that. Not that I have any particular experience with AN fittings, but I was on the Aeroquip site a few days ago, and they made the point that the "seal" is formed as the beveled end of the male fitting presses against the innermost rim of the female fitting. Putting a crush washer on would only serve to absolutely prevent that seal. I would just try to snug them down a little tighter. And only use teflon tape on pipe threads... not AN fittings (I know you didn't).

BTW. Sorry for any unintentional sexual imagery that may have distracted the reader.