web site for drilling butterflies?
 

does any one know of a site that advises how to drill butterflies correctly??

It's so hard keeping their little bodies from being crushed in the vise though!**)

Seriously though, If your having trouble with idle, have you tried adjusting the secondary stop? Might help.

Also, I did find this: http://www.chevelles.com/forums/printthread.php?t=92296
Larry

Ken,
Got your message. I think the Idle-Ez plate for your Daemon should help out a bit vs. drilling your existing butterflies. The idea of adjustability without having to remove the Carb is pretty cool. I bet there are others with large cams and Daemon carbs here on CC that might benefit from this as well. Let us now how it goes once you try it.

The Barry Grant carb line does have carbs - Mighty Demon - that use the Idle Eze to add additional air to the idle circuit without having to drill holes in the throttle blades. I had an 850 Holley with drilled throttle blades and a major massage from Jet Performance on my 418W, and after 2 years of fussing I gave up on trying to get it to work correctly for idle and off idle throttle response. The carb was just too big for 418 c.i. at 6000 rpm with 93% VE. I went to a smaller BG Mighty Demon carb, and what a difference in throttle response, torque, idle cleaned up, and gas economy even got better.

If you decide to drill the butterflies, start at 1/16 inch drill bit and work up from there. Go no bigger than 1/8 inch in diameter. Remember, you can't make the holes smaller once they're drilled. Drill the holes in the throttle blade on the opposite side away from the idle port. Jet Perf did drill mine on the idle port side however. All 4 throttle blades should be drilled if you have 4 corner idle mix screws. This allows more air into the motor at idle without having to turn the idle speed screw any farther past the transfer slot. Once you're too far past the transfer slot your motor becomes pig rich at idle. When you have the carb off the motor, look at the tranfer slot and throttle blade(s) relationship and make sure your idle speed screw has the throttle blade no more than .010 - .020 open into the transfer slot. Once you have succeeded in settling on the hole sizes, you need to reset your timing, idle speed and idle mix screws. After the holes are drilled to your satisfaction the idle speed should increase, thus allowing you to turn down the idle speed screw - this is good. Initial timing should be as much as the starter can handle, or about 18-20 degrees initial and then whatever total timing is best for your motor. My 418W has a MSD Pro Billet distributor with a 14 degree bushing from 4secondsflat.com and a total timing of 34 degrees. You really have to get the timing down pat before you can expect to get max off idle and throttle response. Good luck.

thanks all. called barry grant tech line a few times today. i got a few different answers. the first guy told me that idle eze will not work with a race demon due to jets, air bleeds and all other settings on them. he told me to remove the alcohol jet(?) located in the center of the base plate and replace it with a .199 size jet. i have never heard of that.

the second guy said to only drill as a last resort. he said to first try advancing the initial timing to as much as 20 degrees, mabey recurving total timing so it wont be too high, in order to get idle up so that i may square off transfer slots. he said to then adjust idle mixtures, and should be done.

wow, is there a definate answer??? lol

Ken if you can't fix it yourself we have a great shop here in Yuba City. Its called the Carb Shop. Harold Beck is the one and only empoyee and had been at it the 30 years I have known him.

Ed

thudmaster, good info...always good to know a good carb guy!!!! :> thanks.