LSC clutch problems..
 

Before I get side tracked with my sad story let me ask a question of my fellow Lone Star Classic owners.. With my 428, 3550 tremec and external slave cylinder hydraulic clutch, who makes and what is the part number for the clutch slave cylinder?? I've got a Tilton M/C which is new but the slave cylinder is original.. Now for the drama...

Well .... we are finally getting a break from the 95 to 100 degree temps and today I'm feeling a lil' froggy. It's a great opportunity to drive the Cobra to work today. After all... there's a cool morning, mediocre humidity and 30 miles of dry asphalt beckoning. I slide out to the back garage, go inside to "pre-warm" the Cobra. The garage door will closed so as not to pi$$ off any more neighbors than I absolutely have to. She fires and warms up then I go to put it in reverse and she no wanna go. I pump the clutch a couple times and it slides in to reverse.. I back on out of the garage. ( note to self: If the d#*n clutch doesn't work right the first time, don't drive the darn thing. It needs fixin'.) As I'm driving and shifting gears I notice the shift engagements are getting harder to the point I've got to pump the snot out of the pedal to go into any gear. It got so bad that 4th was the only gear that I could muster enough clutch rod stroke to get into.. Man, was that ever a fun 10 mile drive though lights, traffic and other obstacles. Needless to say, I didn't drive the Cobra and had to drive the daily beater.. my 04 390 rwhp Z06 .. sniff .... sniff... :CRY: :CRY:

The Lone Star clutch is a "proposed" Master to Slave ratio. You will want to adjust and reconfigure your own setup for you.

I had to drop a .700 bore Master in after trying the 1 inch bore. I did the math and found I was working to hard to move the rod.

From your description, the very first thing is; your system is not bled. If you had to pump the master, you had air in the system. May I suggest you bleed the system before making changes.

May I suggest you take a couple of measurements and do the math on your hydraulics. LSC may have gotten you in the park and you may just need to bleed the system, or, they could be off enough that you may want to change your ratios.

Just my $0.02

The stroke/pedal pressure has always been satifactory in the past. I see no reason to reinvent the wheel. I've always had plenty of stroke for disengagement, even a little extra. The pedal effort was always light. The master cylinder was replaced about 4 months ago and the system has been great since. The old M/C was in bad shape. The cylinder was scored severly. The system fluid was black and watery with minute particulate matter. I see no reason to assume the slave is any better now. Before I want to get under the car I want everything in hand, fluid and slave. I don't want to deal with it twice after bleeding it then finding out it's a scored slave cylider with a cracked/split/hard piston seal. Time is more precious that the cost of the slave cylinder. Thanks for your input!

Undy;
If you need a hand give me a call at 757-651-3577. I'm on "unscheduled vacation" probably through this weekend, maybe longer.
Bill Stradtner

You more than likely have a Wilwood slave.Every LSC I have seen come with them as standard equipment.

I went thru 3 ( in 1 1/2 years ) of them before I found out what was causing my problems.Leaking seals !

I took my last one apart to see if I could find out anything.
It turned out that that the piston had partialy unscrewed from the rod.That caused the seals on the piston to leak.It also allowed the rod to put side pressure on the seal in the end of the body wiping it out.

I had a brand new one in hand at that time with 2 new rebuid kits.
I then took the new one apart to check the piston/rod tightness.It was loose ! I put red locktite on the rod and tightened it down.
It has now been 3 years with zero problems. :D

I finally got in touch with Brain and Mike at LSC and they said that the FE' slave cylinder is different from the rest. It uses a Wagner #F12411. I'm trying to locate one now..

Dave

If you can't find a Wagner, NAPA has a direct replacement for the Wagner part number.

:D :D :D

Yep, Napa's part number: 33721

Bendix is 11206

Chrysler OEM is J924794

Tru Torque is CS33721

EIS is EW33721

Ford OEM is C5TZ-7A508D

Google was my friend! :D


Dave

Sounds like you've figured it out. The sad rule is that whenever your master goes south, your slave is generally right there with it. I never replace one without the other any more.