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Omathisen 08-12-2006 01:03 PM

Starting
 
I am having problems starting my ERA with a 351 and a four-barrel 750 Holley. It seems to flood itself immediately and will only start when "dried" out and I quirt some starter fluid. But as soon as I let the rpm's drop, the engine tends to die. When it does, it is impossible to restart unless it has sat for a while, and the gas seems to have evaporated from the carbutor, and I spray some more starter fluid. Then, the whole cycle repeats itself.
Someone (Bret Ewing) suggested in another posting that such a problem could be due to a fuel regulator issue. My car also has a Holley fuel pump.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
OMathisen

ERA Chas 08-12-2006 01:13 PM

O,
If you have some experience: remove the sight plugs from the fuel bowls, (engine cold and off) letting fuel drain out. Dry off everything, start engine. Loosen lock nut on needle valve (the large slotted screw head on top of each bowl) and slowly turn counter clockwise so fuel just stops seeping out of the sight plugs. Lock the nut on that setting and go on to the other needle.
Go for a ride and adjust the float levels until you have smooth operation.
Good luck.

ERA Chas 08-12-2006 01:16 PM

Forgot to mention. If you have a mechanical Holley pump and the above does not work, the pump valve may have stuck open. I had one come apart in my hands while fixing this severe flooding problem you're getting. A new Carter mechanical would be the fix.

Omathisen 08-12-2006 02:52 PM

Thanks Chas.
I will try it. My pump is electrical.
Also discussed the issue with a guy who runs a local Corvette shop and I suggestes it was the float (I don't remember the details) that causes the flooding. He asked if I would take out the carb and give it to him and he would fix it - or bring the the car.
I will you posted.
OMathisen

ERA Chas 08-12-2006 03:57 PM

O,
The procedure I describe is adjustment of the float level using the needle and seat assemblies. If the gent sets a static float level with the carb on a bench, you'll still need to adjust the level on the car, while running.
If you have a "blue" Holley pump you do need a regulator set to 7 or 7 1/2 lbs.
If you have a "red" pump you need no regulator, it's already a 7 lb. output. The other is 15 lbs if un-regulated.

wtm442 08-12-2006 07:17 PM

ERA Chas
Your explaination should say make adjust slowly, no more that 1/4 turn at a time. Most people overadjust and result in a low float level.

You can only do that adjustment method on the primary side if its a vacuum secondaries. If its mechanical secondaries you really have to blip the throttle a few times b/4 doing any adjustment on sec float level

For the secondaries, remove one of the lower screws for a few seconds to drain some of the gas. When its restarted, if gas flows out of the secondary hole, adjust it down a little. Repeat.

You may have dirt in the primary needle and seat area. Remove and inspect. Clean or replace (if necessary or really old).

Good tip you mentioned was go for a ride. Come back and check levels again.

Omathisen 08-13-2006 08:25 AM

Hi again,
The fuel pump is a "red" Holley.
I have had the car for eight years. It has always been a bit tricky to start, that is, it floods easily. Just have to keep that in mind. But it always started fine once it had been running. Changed the fuel filter two years ago.
So is the culprit dirt or can the float level change from other causes?
Working on it.

scootter 08-13-2006 08:29 PM

Check your float levels first. You will find out when you are trying to adjust them if the neddle/needles are stuck open since the fuel will keep pouring out. It only takes a small piece of junk to keep them open.
Mine was always a pain to start after driving since the fuel would boil over into the engine. I install the Holley heat spacer and it solved that problem.
Scott

Carnut427 08-14-2006 12:00 AM

At this point, your problem can be either a small foreign object keeping the needle & seat from shutting off the fuel or a bad regulator in your fuel pump.
The internal regulator in my Holley red pump didn't last long, and I had the same flooding issues you have. The unit can be taken apart & repaired, but once you see how little there is to it you'll probably decide you need something better. I put in a separate Holley regulator for under $30.
http://static.summitracing.com/globa...y-12-803_m.jpg


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