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Clutch slave cylinder....again
OK folks,
Not to beat a dead horse, but I could not find an answer in other threads to this. I have a SPF, 900 series with a 460 SVO and a 5 speed Tremec TKO or TR-3550-2. (A bit confused with the transmission tag and what the Tremic web site says). The clutch slave cylinder appears to be a Nissan (Datsun) or Toyota attached to the bell housing. And it leaks pretty badly. Even after replacement. If looking down the length of the cylinder, the threaded rod (plunger) is not straight, but exits the housing at an angle. My mechanic has thought of elongating the mounting holes to move the slave in a direction to line everything up best as possible. Has anyone tried this, or has anyone built a bracket to locate the slave to resolve this problem. Is this just a engine, bell housing and transmission combination problem? |
Yes, I designed my setup
See the attached picture. Its important for it to be straight.
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Yes, it should be somewhat straight, however, it doesn't have to be "nuts on". You say it leaks..... where? Do you have photos (it's a bit hard to visualize the angle). Ever think of another brand of slave?
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Threaded rod? Elongating holes.... Ugh!...Those are signs that who ever did your install didn't understand the basics of aligning the slave properly. Realize there is a LOT of hydraulic pressure on the rod and the slave cylinder itself. If that pressure isn't equalized uniformly around the piston that moves within the slave the angle on the threaded rod only gets worse as you actuate the clutch. That constant pressure on one side of the cylinder puts undo load on the piston and seal (not to mention the minor dimeter of the threaded rod) and eventually causes the slave to leak or the rod to fail. 1. Fabricate a new slave bracket so that the centerline of the cylinder is directly in line with the pivot point on the clutch arm. 2. Locate a nice Grade 8 bolt of the proper length and machine the end to a nice round shape that conforms to the inner shape of the piston in the slave and just use the threaded end for adjustment. (Note: If this is too much trouble you can also buy a quality slave cylinder from any good on-line speed shop (CNC brand is recommended) complete with a properly designed shaft. Also... Do you have a return spring to keep the throwout bearing off the fingers of the clutch when not engaged? If not added the bracketry and spring to accomplish that. Badger
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Wilwood makes a pull type for around $70. ken
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Thanks guys,
Kbisconti, The present configuration is a push type. Morgan, the picture didn't come through. Please try again. Thanks Badger. Sounds like I was right and I need to fabricate a bracket that will line up the push rod (proper part name) with the arm. Hopefully the housing wont conflict with the frame or body. Phil, I might change manufacturers. I can't believe the previous owner didn't have these problems. And I really can't believe the first mechanic I went to, who works on these cars all the time, didn't correct it when he had it on the lift. I'll need to get myself a lift so I can fix these things myself. S.S. |
I also have a Datsun slave attached to my bellhousing. My actuator rod is also bent.
Either you extended the piston past the cup-seal or your replacement is not good. Do you have a positive stop on your pedal? May I suggest you do the following: 1. get the car in the air. 2. put a person in the driver's seat. 3. crawl under the car with a good light. 4. ask them to push in the pedal...all the way. 5. measure the distance. If it is more than an inch, you are traveling beyond the slave's piston travel. Hope this helps. |
Dave is absolutely right. There are several alternatives to the Datsun/Toyota slave cylinder available. There is an old article in one of the Fast Ford Magazines that shows a step by step procedure of installing a slave cylinder on your Tremic (I believe it came out in the Spring of 2002). Article gives diminsions and pictures of how to properly install a slave cylinder on your TREMIC. One key point they made was to use a stop or limiter on your pedal to stop you from over extending your piston in your slave cyl.
Clois |
Quote:
The willwood slave would be flipped around so it pulls to the rear of the car. The heim joint end is attached to the frame rail with a spacer to get it close to lined up, and the threaded rod goes thru the fork and can move freely because of the heim at the other end of the slave. This slave also has 1 3/8" of travel. |
Okay, I confess, I posted so Clois could bring up that article. :LOL: :LOL:
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OK, I'll bite. How do I get my hands on the article? I'm not able to find in on line.
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You may want to try mike forte's (Forte's parts connection 508-875-0010) for a slave cylinder and fork extention. I did and I'm real happy with the results. I have a small block but misalignment is misalignment. It cured mine. :)
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The saga continues
Here's an update:
Picked up the car yesterday where the mechanic was tasked to: fix oil leaks (done, well almost), fix the slave cylinder (done), replace the clutch disk/pressure plate/ and throw-out-bearing (done), and examine the fly wheel to see if was glazed. Turns out..... the wrong flywheel was previously installed. It was a 427 flywheel!!! It was also glazed over due to the rear main seal and back of the oil pan gasket were leaking. (hence the oil leaks) So we installed a new aluminum with steel insert flywheel. Which actually the engine now rev's up faster. The bracket that holds the slave already had slotted mounting holes for adjustment, which it is now fairly close to straight. But I will use some of your advice and replace the whole thing in winter. But for temporary sakes for fall cruising.....even after we adjusted the pedal in the cock pit (to the point the brake and clutch pedal are not even), now the disengagement point is too far down. I have to extend my toe pretty far for a smooth shift. I'm concerned if I adjust too much under the car the TOB will ride the plate. Does this ever end?:confused: |
no. ends when the $ ends.
hang in there, Steve!!! :D |
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