Need Opinion on Cenerforce clutch counterweights
 

I have been told by someone who has built many FE powered Cobras, that if you use a centerforce dual friction clutch, the centrifugal weights should be removed. Supposedly this makes shifting easier at high RPM. The opinion is that the Cobras are so light the extra pressure the weights put on pressure plate is not required. Centerforce has a warning not to remove them. Anybody had any experience one way or the other?

I ran them on my 600HP 460 with no problems shifting as high as 6000 RPM.

I shift mine at 6300 - 6400 every now and then with no problem. I have a small block but not sure what difference that would make in this discussion.

I am running that clutch in both my BB and SB Cobras and have never had any problem with the weights being on the clutch. I never removed any of them.

Ron

I've run mine both ways on the same clutch. I originally installed it with the weights and ran it for about a year with no problems. Then the McLeod hydraulic throw out bearing sprung a leak and I had to tear it down. McLeod updated the bearing to the new design that eliminated the banjo seals and during conversations with Red Roberts about my driveline, he told me to remove the weights. His theory is that with the weights putting more force on the pressure plate fingers at higher speed the engagement point of the fingers with the throwout bearing changes. Any change in that engagement changes the stroke required in the bearing and opens the risk to over extend the bearing beyond the sealing ability of the O-ring, which can cause it to fail. He also feels the weights have little to no affect on clutch grip at high RPMs. Although this sounded a bit like Red putting down a competitor's product, he's generally a very credible guy. Since I didn't want to have any more hydraulic TOB problems, I cut the weights off before I reinstalled it. I've run it like that for about 3 years now with no problem. Both with and without the weights, I've never felt problems with the grip of the clutch at any engine speed.

Now, I don't rev my 521 above 5500 RPM, so I can't claim any experience with clutch slip above that range. The weights might help in the 6000+ RPM range; I can't comment on that. Also, my interpretation of Red's recommendation is that removing the weights is probably only appropriate if you are running with a hydraulic TOB. If using a mechanical system, I don't see how the weights would cause any problem, according to his logic.

I'm no expert, but hope this helps.

Chuck

The Centerforce is a stock clutch with a gimmick(the weights)to sell clutches.

Never had an issue- but on the other hand don't know if they even make a difference!

Yes I big problem
 

RENEW1 Yes I have had A BIG problem with centerforce clutches.:mad: My car would not shift over 3 k rpm after installing there whole clutch assembly. I was told from there tech many things, Bellhousing out of center, yes it was .038" I spent 3 hours to center it perfect, less than .002". Reassemblyed same shifting problem. I was running a 6 spds Richmond, was told the problem of shift was in the trans,(new Trans) Shipped it back to Richmond and was checked out, NO PROBLEM FOUND, reinstalled trans, same problem would not shift over 3 K. My motor makes more tork than the rate for the 6 spd calls for. I called G-Force and had a 5-spd clutchless trans with shifter sent. Installed it and same problem. Call centerforce again and was told it is not the clutch. I said B.S. I asked how the wieghts work on the pressure plate, was told the faster the clutch spins, the more pressure is put on the fingers of the plate. A semi lockup clutch is what it is. Anyway I REMOVED the ring and wieghts, The car can rev to 6k and no shifting problem. I am not sure 100% but I think that the clutch with wieghts needs a hydro thrown out bearing. The stock ERA system make not produce the pressure needed to disengage the pressure plate over 3K rpm. The other thing could be the clutch fork could be bending. I am using a dual disc from Mcloed on my next motor. I have burned up the centerforce clutch from drag racing. I am guess the pressure plate is only good for a 2600 lb car with out wieghts. This adventure cost me 6,500.00 dollars total. I did the work myself. The clutch I have in the car is a ZOOM. I think it is stamped borg and beck on it, just a name. If you want to talk call me 732-254-3536 est in the evening. I hydro bearing will need a clutch pedal stop to pervent over extension and blowing apart. Rick Lake Ps Centerforce is off my Christmas list forever:eek: :rolleyes:

The replies to this thread are interesting and when all are taken into account, I think I will remove the weights. It looks like there is a definite problem with using the hydraulic throwout bearing and centerforce clutch. Although I'm not using a hydraulic TOB, there may be something to the story of the ERA system having trouble with increased pressure plate grip from the weights at high RPM. I did notice that all the replies with no problems were not ERA cars.

The weights are there to provide additional clamping force and aid in lock up. The centrifical force generated by the spinning weights allows for (in theory) a lighter spring and for a lighter pedal at lower rpms. Sometimes the results are questionable. Without the weights the designed in clamping force cannot be created, and slipping may result, hence the previously mentioned "Warning". I personally thing a stiffer pedal is just the price you pay for a stronger clutch. No need to reinvent the wheel.

The Mcleod street-twin is rated to 1400 HP.The clutch can be adjusted (plate-pressure)to YOUR HP level.That way you have the grab AND both your legs stay the same size.:D