painless wiring b+ wire ?
 

looking through the manual there are wires that are marked b+. what does this designate? thanks

also where is everybody getting their roll crimpers for the terminals? thanks again.

B+ wires will be hooked to a hot battery source.

I got all of my connectors at Waytek Wire and replaced the ones that came with my Painless kit. They also have a bunch of crimpers and other bits that are useful.

I used Painless on a LoneStar but replaced all their crimpers with ones from Radio Shack

thanks guys. so the b+ is constant hot or unfused?

yes indeed. I just relooked at my old Painless harness book and the b+ wires are all direct battery connections, no fuse. It looks like the ones I have marked as B+ are one from the ignition switch, and one on the solenoid.

Glyn

btw...the BIGGEST problem I had was getting the headlight dimmer switch to work correctly with the Painless Harness, and it was ONLY becuase I didn't read the instructions correctly about the COLORS of the ground wiring on the headlights...watch for it!! I made the 'obvious' assumption and it was the WRONG one...lol

Glyn

For electrical terminals it's best to use a crimper that is intended for non-insulated terminals. (I know this sounds nuts but I'll try to explain)

The garden variety crimpers for insulated terminals will consist of two cresent shaped dies and crunch both sides of the terminal barrel over the wire. These have a bad habit of not providing a good solid crimp to the wire especially in the case of stranded wire.

Non-insulated crimpers have one side with a half circle with a point on the other side.

something like this: > ) as opposed to this: ( )


This point punches into the terminal barrel and actually causes less distortion to the insulator than the "cutting in half" effect of the insulated crimpers. It's been my experiance that it also provides a rock solid retention of stranded wire. A good place to look for this type of crimper is in the fishing dept. (used for leader barrel crimps) When using these crimpers you want to punch into the side of the barrel opposite of the seam. (typically the bottom of the connector)

Also terminals with nylon insulators as opposed to the plastic ones are preferrable especially in outside areas of the car. Nylon terminals typically have a transparent appearance. The nylon is much more resistant to splitting, heat, and chemical breakdown.

A loose crimp can be a real bear to track down, especially on the side of the highway. Take those insulated crimpers and toss them in the trash. (or keep them handy for someone that wants to borrow your tools):rolleyes:

Here's what your looking for: Grainger Industrial Supply: Crimping Plier 3KH45

Crimp, solder, heat shrink tubing or you'll be doing it again at an inoportune time.
3 years ago when I redid the entire electrical system on my older NAF car had parts of an OEM Mustang II loom that was used from the locking steering column and had been spliced into behind the dash.
I stripped every bit of wiring out of the entire car and also chose a different ignition switch and dash layout with toggle switches.
I bought several colors of high quality high temp jacketed (GXL) primary wire. Several packages of "good" ring, and bullet connectors (without the plastic collars) and other miscellaneous bits. I used a wiring diagram and hard wired the entire car. Each connection is crimped, soldered and then heat shrink wrapped. It took a few days to do but was actually fun planning and executing. Afterwards I used a 6 volt lantern battery to test everything before attaching the car battery. I do not anticipate any electrical gremlins short of a component failure.

GOOD point from Rick about 'heat shrink tubing', use LOTS of it!

I solder and heat shrink all crimps. I like the Delco Weatherpack connectors, they have a rubber seal where the wire goes into the body of the connector making it almost water tight. I also use fuse links on the B+ connectors, but only outside the cockpit. A good way to check your circuits is to use a 12V lantern battery, it has the volts but not enough amps to bring on a meltdown, and will power most all circuits.

Liquid electrical tape (or Dip-Grip) or even RTV will provide good sealing.

Heat shrink with the hotmelt adhesive inside provides a better seal than standard heat shrink but it's tougher to find.

Moisture wicking is a big problem with terminals in engine bays and under-car areas. Some form of sealing is a must.

Actually a great wire to use is TNN electrical wire. it has a thin nylon outer jacket over the PVC. If price is no object you could use the teflon coated, silver plated, Arospace - Nuclear plant grade wire.:)

Soldering is the ultimate way to ensure good contact, make sure you clean off the flux though, rosin flux is corrosive at higher temps.

Actually a great wire to use is TNN electrical wire. it has a thin nylon outer jacket over the PVC. If price is no object you could use the teflon coated, silver plated, Arospace - Nuclear plant grade wire.:)[/quote]


supposed to be good for 5 hp! :D

Go to any good marine store and get Ancor wire and connectors. Marine wire has tinned strands and a high thermal rating (105* celsius). the connectors all have epoxy heat shrink insulation. RONBO is right about the crimper design, Klien Tools make the tool of choice for serious electricians. I have no connection with these companies, other than as a prolific user of their product.

to expand on the subject, looking at the fuse block there appears to be relays for the ignition and lighting. i'm thinking i need to put in relays for the fan, fuel pump, and water pump if electric. just want to make sure before purchase, does this sound right?

You definitely do for the fan, and one usually comes with the fan 'kit', and same for an electric water pump. The fuel pump doesn't draw as much current so you probably don't need one.

I didn't, but that doesn't mean a thing...lol, since my middle name is not Tesla...so I'd love to hear if anyone else put a relay in for the fuel pump and why!


Glyn

Somewhere in my career , I was told by an engineer at a power plant that when Teflon burned , it gave off a poison gas ... don`t really know if that is true ... does anyone else ? Only reason I bring this up , is that sometimes there are electrical fires in wiring .
Just my $.00002 worth .

Ya, probably phosgine gas. Most clorinated hydrocarbons generate it.

If the fire's that bad I would advise running away. Teflon needs some 600deg to burn. Plus the entire electrical system would require a few pounds at best.

Most buildings have some level of teflon wire as it's rated for plenum grade. (usually data cables in overheads)

PVC on the other hand generates tons of smoke. (this will get you quick)

I'm sure some have seen the Ford explorers and pickup trucks on the side of the road with smoke bellowing out of the cab.:eek: