Electric hook ups...Accusump ganged to fuel pump
 

Funny, I thought there was a dedicated sub-forum for electrical stuffl but I guess not.:confused:

OK, I'm wiring the Accusump and it requires an on/off switch that picks up power from ignition on, then supplies it to the electronic valve that opens up the sump and supplies oil to the engine before start.
I'm thinking of using the existing electric fuel pump switch to do double duty, so I don't have to drill another hole in the dash.
I turn the fuel pump switch on (after ignition on) before starting the engine, (which is what you need to do for the Accusump). Then you're supposed to turn off the Accusump just before shutting down the engine to close the valve and retain current oil pressure (which you could do with the fuel pump).
If I change that switch to a higher amp rated switch, wouldn't this work?

Thanks for any input.:)

Yeah, it would work. As you said you just have to make sure you don't surpass the amperage rating on the switch. I would fuse each lead as well.
You do have to consider the idea of putting two contrasting functions on the same switch, in the big picture I would prefer having individual control over each function rather than "doubling up" as you are contemplating.
Drilling on more switch hole isn't that big a deal and I would think in the long run having independent control of both the fuel pump and the hydraulic valve is something you would probably end up doing anyway.
But, yeah it would work.

Another way would be to use an adequated fused relay ( with it's separate power supply) to power each pump, and let the switch parallel power the relays. Use a 12g wire on the switch circuit, and you shouldn't get much of a voltage drop. This is how we switch on field current when running 2 big alternators on marine engines.

As long as you use relays for both the fuel pump and the acusump, that should work just fine.

bobcowan, thats what I meant. Relays make electricians into magicians.

I have built my own systems and done a bunch of head scratchin over these issues. Right now your valve is on or open as long as engine runs allowing oil pressure to flow if needed but needs you to turn off before engine shuts down (this keeps pressure for next start up). This is using Hot side of battery to open/close the solenoid and it needs power as long as engine is running so they sometimes get a little hot, plus a low battery turns it all off.

If you add a pressure switch, relay , red warning light for dash mount and push button switch you could have it work like this. Turn the key to on position and push the button to prime the system then start her up. Push button again to fill the accusump with engine running. Now because it is wired through the pressure switch and dash warning light no electric draw is needed until engine pressure drops. If the pressure drops it closes pressure sensing switch and automatically dumps oil into engine but also turns dash light on so you know a problem existed. My system refills the sump automatically so you do not need to manually refill sump or remember to turn solenoid off so you have a charge for the next start up.

Wire the relay to supply hot to the solenoid from the ignition and turn system on/off with the ground signal. The adjustable pressure switch set at say 20 PSI will trip if oil pressure drops or if you push the button switch also suppling a ground. The dash light also uses this ground signal to warn you if pressure is low causing the A-sump to supply oil to engine. No hot solenoid or no current draw until it sees low oil pressure and turns itself on, plus you do not have to remember to turn system off so it saves pressure for next start up. works great.
PS My solenoid will not loose a drop of pressure even after weeks in the trailer.

I have a separate dash switch with indicator light. As a pre-oiler, I activate the unit but turn it off a few minutes after starting. This retains the highest pressure in the unit and the Accusump is not needed for regular driving. Obviously, when the motor is cold it will produce the highest pressure.

On open track days I leave it on so it can act as an accumulator.

Roscoe

Hey Roscoe,
If wired through a N.C. Pressure switch or a switch that acceptable oil pressure keeps the reserve oil at the ready. Any pressure drop below the set point of the P. switch allows oil flow to the engine from the A-sump. The enable voltage to all this can be an ignition source but I prefer a toggle SW.

In the end it is the same functions you have except the solenoid remains off in my case until needed and your uses the always on condition.

A few years ago I tried to find a solenoid with a high flow rate, rated for the temps of oil and oil compatible and with no leak down when turned off. I also wanted one that would allow flow in the fill direction but at a restricted rate as I was concerned it might starve the engine for those few seconds it took. Everything I found leaked down over the course of a few moments to a day or so leaving no pressure to pre-oil a week later. I wound up going to a supplier that configured or made just what I wanted but had to buy a min. # at a time as they were not self stock items.

I took the units that leaked down on put them on turbos as after oilers to cool them down and stop any coking effect so all was not lost. It took some tweaking but found I could get a 1 quart system to after-oil for right at 4 min directly at the turbo inlet.

The system I got from Canton includes an EPC (Electronic Pressure Control) switch that is wired before the solenoid. It's rated at 20psi and functions such that when pressure builds up to over 30-35psi, it cuts power to and closes the solenoid valve, and when pressure drops to below 20, opens it to allow oil out. So it's circuit is normally closed, and breaks when pressure is up above 20psi.:)

Also, part of the leakdown test is pumping the sump to 70 psi and checking the entire system for leaks. My Accusump had 40psi in it when I bought it 14 months ago and the gauge still reads just a hair under 40psi.

Jcoop,
You have a great sytem, I went and checked it out on their web page. The early systems in Jegs etc.. came with instructions to use a ball valve or purchase their electric soleniod kit. This was all a far cry from the systems available today in price and function. The ones that use a motor to either pre- oil or maintain pressure are great units but bulkier and heavier too. Units with a nitrogen charged diaphragm are much lighter with less to install. The unit I am using was first built a few years ago with parts in my shop and still in use. Take care jeff C

Run relays to every heavy ampage curcuit
 

Jcoop Coop Don't gang tie heavy ampage draws together. Anything using more that 20 amp of steady load need relays. The main problem is not the steady load, it's the surge when you first turn on the curcuit. This is the reason for slow blow fuses. The spike from turning on a curcuit like a fuel pump or electric fan is 35-50 amps. The 30 amp relays can handle the power spikes alot better than any switch. Most switches are rated at 15 or 20 amps max. I auto cross and road race. I use my accusump as a preoiler for the motor and to keep oil pressure up in long sweeping turns of almost 1 G. This keeps the pressure safe for the motor at 40 psi on the turn. After the race I rev the motor to fill the accusump backup to full and turn off. This way it is ready for the next race. I am going dry sump on the next motor. This is a cheap way to keep a motor alive on a race track without the 3K other system. IMO I would ask Canton if they have a higher pressure switch for the motor, 30 psi min. IMO 20 psi of oil pressure is too low if you are racing. 40 would be better. Just MO. If any thing a would add a low oil pressure light on the dash, for racing. Auto meter sells them. Rick L.

Another helpfull thing is to wire capacitors across your relay / switch contacts. Use a Ceramic disk or Mica capacitor of .1 uf value or higher.

The capacitor will absorb some of the initial arcing that occurs because of high in-rush current that inductive loads (solenoids, motors) produce. Light bulbs like your headlights also produce in-rush during heat up of the filiment but it's not as harsh as inductive loads.

To keep spikes off the electrical system you can also place a reverse polarity diode across the coil to absorb the inductive kick produced on de-energizing. Collapsing magnetic fields produce a reverse polarity spike. (this is how your ignition coil works) Any of you that have stereos may notice the "pops" when certain items are switched off.

With more electronic systems becoming common place even on vintage cars, the electrical system needs to have better filtering than just the battery. You'll find decoupling caps scattered throughout the electrical system of most modern cars to remove high frequency noise that can effect various electronic controls like anti-lock brakes, engine computer, suspention controls, ect.

A modern riding lawnmower has more electronics than the original Cobras had.

I hope you guys notice from my original post that I'm really a :confused: when it comes to electronics. Now I have to learn about diodes and capacitors?:eek::eek::eek: That drill bit is looking like the more attractive option:LOL:

How about this?
I have a new Lucas 3 position headlamp switch, where position 1 is off, 2 circuit "a" only, and 3 is circuit "a" and "b" both on. I'd wire the fuel pump to 2, and the Accusump pressure switch to 3...

Seems simpler, I'd replace the fuel pump switch with this; same 5/8" hole.

It's your car Ray
 

Jcoop I am going to stop after this 1 thing. A light switch DOESN'T have to supply has much amps to the lights that it will to Fuel pumps and electric soleniods. If you have relays for both curcuits, the switch should be OK. If the switch goes bad and you are on the road, you loose the 2 curcuits. I run a switch plate under the dash for all accessories. I have 4. One for each fuel pump, 1 for the accusump oiler, and one for the disappearing into the night tail lights for now. %/ I have covers on all the switches so I can't hit them by accident. Good luck. Rick L. Ps we are just trying to give you the correct way to install a curcuit and not melt a wiring harness. God knows that this wouldn't be any fun. It is neat to let the smoke out of a curcuit once in a while.:eek::rolleyes::CRY::o;):3DSMILE:

I know, I know...thanks Rick.:)

Valuable wisdom shared here. Thanks all.