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How to remove transmission alignment dowels?
Hey guys, I'm removing the stock short alignment dowels from an aluminum block so that I can put longer ones in. I have tried gripping with vice grips, but man those suckers are in there!
Any tips? |
Brent, Try heating the aluminum around the dowels with a oxy/acetylene torch. You have to do it quick to avoid heat transfer as much as possible to the dowels. I've also used a steel hex nut that just barely slides over the dowel and welded the inside perimeter of the nut and dowel with my mig. Let it cool then heat the block and use a wrench or socket to spin it out.
Dave |
I've welded the head of a bolt to the dowel, then used a slide hammer that screwed on the bolt thread. Comes out with a few whacks.
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Brent, BTW, are you receiving my PM's?
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Brent-
I had much difficulty getting them out and I finally ground 2 flats on them so I could turn it with an adjustable wrench and used heat as mentioned above. Once you can turn it, you can work them out. When you go to replace them, I reccomend the Robb MC ones if offset is needed or McMaster for dowels that have a thread in them so removal is much easier. http://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/dowels.html http://www.mcmaster.com/ see pull out dowel pins |
Job from Hell, although mine was an iron block, you will learn new words removing the old ones and your neighbors will send their children to their rooms with their door closed.
I flattened the teeth on two sets of vice grips, as recommended by Xracer I ground the edges flat, then rounded them off trying to turn them. I tried driving them out from behind after heating the surrounding area, bent the punch. I tried Brents idea of the slide hammer, wouldn't budge. I finally said &%$k it and drilled them out using progressively larger bits after each pass. I did use Robb MC offsets and they worked quite well. |
i would first try to get a good penetrant in there. they are prob put in dry and will be a real b to get out. if the penetrant has done it's job you might be able to drive them out. then, get the torch out and a good pair of vice grips and do the heat and wiggle thing or weld a fastener to it or you might be able to drive it out.
i would use antiseize on reinstallation for possible later removal:) |
You can get a special slide hammer that has a collet chuck on the end to grip the dowels. It's probably a bit pricey though.
You've got a tig welder. If they are hollow dowels, tack weld a nut to the end of the dowel and run a bolt in to push it out. Like a harmonic balancer puller works. You won't be able to re use the dowels but you are replacing them anyway. If they are solid dowels drill a hole in it and run a tap through and do the same trick. Cheers |
Can you try pressing them out with a ball joint remover? Looks like a big C clamp that you can use different hollow sleeves to go over the pins. I would be leary of knocking them out with a punch or slide hammer for fear of busting off an ear on the block. Use some heat and Rust Buster.
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Quote:
Here is the tool. click here => http://stefs.com/bandb/products/prod...npullerset.htm I've used it and it works great! Ed |
There is always the "thread the stud and twist it out" methode. Even if it spals a little, it will still come out.
Die cut the stud half way with a nut size that you can get a grade 8 nut. Thread the nut on and continue to turn once the reads have run out. Put a small amount of pressure on the nut and wrench and walk the stud out. The dangers are the stud will not turn and will break. Another one would be to center drill the stud and tap it out. Install a bolt and work it from there. Problem with welding is Aluminum absorbs heat faster than steel and melts. Just my $0.02 worth and another suggestion. :D :D |
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