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How To Drain Oil Cooler
Well, it's time to change the oil before putting my baby to sleep for the winter and I have thought about the old oil that remains in the oil cooler and lines when the oil is drained from the pan. I have a Pre-Luber by Engine Lubrication Systems installed along with a MoCal oil cooler and thermostatic sandwich adapter. I'm trying to get some ideas about how to drain the oil from the oil cooler during the oil change. I had thought about disconnecting the Pre-Luber oil feed line from the side of the oil pan and pressurizing it with some compressed air to drive out some of the oil remaining in the oil cooler but thought I'd pose the question to see if any of you guys had attempted a similar operation and with what results. In the past I hadn't worried about the old oil since I only put 1500-2000 miles per year on the car but this is something that has been rattling around in my brain for some time.
Any opinions or suggestions? |
I've read here that injecting too much pressurized air into an oil cooler can loosen weld slag that might be at the ends. Just remember that oil heading from the cooler back to the engine is unfiltered, too. At the end of the day you are really not talking about a lot of oil in that thing (at least that's what I learned when emptying one).
-Dean |
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I start off with gentle pressure to get the majority of the oil out with no mess, then I give a few short more powerful blast to finish it off. Hope this helps. Dave |
Just leave it alone and don't worry about it.
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B&G engine flush
SuperHart B&G has a engine flush system that washes out all the oil in the motor and cooler lines. Dealerships have them. They work but I don't believe in washing a motor down with something that looks and smells like kerosene. The best way is to remove the lines and cooler and let the drain by hanging up. Run some brake kleen through the lines and cooler and let drain. Blow this out with LOW PRESSURE AIR. 20-40 psi. Reassemble and fill the system with new oil. I wouldn't worry about this UNLESS you have had a motor blowup and have metal in the oil pan. Add a magnetic half cup to the oil filter. This will catch alot of any metal particles. I would leave the rest alone. You have learn the line of letting sleeping dogs lay.%/;):rolleyes::) Rick Lake
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Rick, ya got me. What is a magnetic half cup, one of those magnetic whatchamacallits that clamps around the oil filter? Personally, I like the idea about breaking the AN lines at the sandwich adapter and blowing out the cooler with compressed air. I think maybe 100-150 lbs. of pressure oughtta do it (kidding).
I don't like the idea of running Brake Kleen through the oil cooler, though. If I needed to clean the unit that thoroughly I would just as soon remove the cooler and clean it on the bench. |
Just about any marine supply store has the vacuum oil extractors, pull one of the lines and suck the oil out.
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...9&classNum=170 This thing also works great for lawn mower oil changes.;) |
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I thought the only concern of this thread was to do a complete oil change and not leave a quart of contaminated oil in the system. I think all the flushes/brakeleen ideas are over the top anal, just break the lines, get the oil out, re-attach lines, fill...it's that easy! |
Easy to do without any fuss.........remove one fitting and hose from the cooler and insert the small hose form this into the cooler. Then use it when you want to bleed the brakes too. They work well.
http://www.toolsource.com/brake-blee...bv4vosmmjek4e0 Fill the cooler directly before restarting the engine, and if you can it's a good idea to remove the distributor and spin the pump for a brief period to refill all the lines and purge any air in the lines or cooler. |
Thanks, Rick, but because I have that Pre-Luber I don't have to prime the engine. All I do is turn on the ignition and the Pre-Luber circulates the oil and builds up 40 lbs. oil pressure before cranking the motor.
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Actually a cheap alterative is a 5gal. bucket with lid and a length of tubing:
Cut a hole in the bucket lid for the tube and a second hole, Hook a shop vac to the second hole. It's somewhat redneck but It"ll work.%/ |
Ronbo: That would be a LARGE economy size version of a Mighty Vac! May use it to suck start your Harley too?
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