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Header bolt question....HELP???????
How the H E DOUBLE HOCKEY STICKS are you supposed to get a wrench or socket on the 12 point header bolt heads......they are soooooooooooooooo darn close to the pipes :JEKYLHYDE:JEKYLHYDE:JEKYLHYDE
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either use the reduced head size ( 3/8" i believe) or go to an allen wrench style.
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header bolts
I use Stage 8 header bolts. hex-head and allen. I love them.
Dwight |
I've got the smallest head made on the 12 point.....the allen head were even worse, no way would they fit.......I'll check out the stage 8 and see what they have.....
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There's no way I could use 12 points on my headers. I use extra small 6 point heads. And, I had to make a couple of special wrenches to get the job done. It's a royal pain in the neck. But I'v done it so many times now, it doesn't take me long.
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Another thing you can do is cut the bottom hole open to the edge of the flange. (make it a "U" instead of "0") This way you can drop the flange down on the already run-in bolt. Silicon carbide cut-off wheel and a drill will get this done fast.
Forget about 12 point, Stage 8 with the teardrop lock (not the "C" shaped one).;) |
try this
take the hex head or what ever it is your trying to fit on the header bolt, cut it down to about a half inch long, then use a small open end wrench, to tighten or loosen, very simple, I have done this many times.
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I have the 3/8" 12pts on mine. I used 3 different wrenches (don't destroy your good ones). One was cut in half as a stubby, nothing else was changed. Another had the rounded area on the closed side grounded really, really thin (still was able to torque it down quite well). The tips of the open area were significantly reduced, probably in half. The last one I made the closed "O" into a "U" on the closed side of the wrench. These (3) wrenches and about 20 minutes total did the trick easily. The Chinese wreches were about $5.
That did it, and could not have been done without it. Nothing else would do it. But it HAD to be the 3/8 12pt (ARP), NOT the 7/16 sold by Spectre - they are just too large and rub against the pipe. No way to get the wrench around it. Bolts which work on an FE maybe chalenging for small block and vise versa. Pipe size also has to be taken into consideration, so asking about what header bolt to use (which you did not ask) is like asking "what is the best kit car to buy?". Thats my two cents. Good luck. |
Bought the ARP Stainless 3/8-16 bolts with the 5 point 5/16 head and the HEADERS ARE ON**)**)**)**) Had to run a tap into a few of the holes to clean out the threads and had to turn the bolts a 1/4 of a turn at a time with an IGNITION wrench till they got down snug, but THEY ARE ON!!!!!
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Use SS lock washes in lieu of those flat washers that come with the 3/8" ARP bolts...they will never back off.
Bill |
Don't use them.
I use SS cap screws for most and studs with nuts for others. If you work it right, you can drill each cap screw for safety wire and they do not unscrew. There are ones that are so tight that you need to work the nut on as the header is screwed in place. I have a lathe, so I also found that I need to put a 45 degree angle on a couple to center the header flange to the head and to get better retention. I highly recommend SS cap screws drilled for safety wire. Old trick. :D |
Quote:
snug = loose header bolt Dave |
I used the 1" SS Stage 8 bolts, 14 per side (two sets). Copper exhaust gaskets . I anealed the gaskets before istalling. The two bolts in the middle of each head are a tight fit. I drilled and wired them. I have alluminum heads and used the 1" long bolts for max thread contact in the head. They don't leak or come lose. It takes several wrenches, and attacks from different angles, and takes several hours. Not something that you casually take apart.
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