Wheel clearance - Page 2

Merv and Sharon · #16 10-30-2009, 07:33 PM

It was touch and go Greg. I DO have the R33 rear (was wrong above). In Indo Papua now so apols for the delay. Not sure what off sets/backspaces/tyres you used and whether the problem is front and rear? I had my suspension set up in a preliminary way by Warwick's suspension guy at Labrador (very cheap) and then finished the job up the Sunshine Coast with a local specialist. The wheels tucked in a good deal and they angle out a little at the base anyway with the suspension settings (using Warwick's suggested settings) and that seemed to do most of the rest. Ride height can also be an issue. I used the same settings and tyres as a former customer of Warwick's these were 'just' OK at rego. I would be even more conservative if I did it again (i.e., do exactly what Warwick suggested). I also suspect that the RHS rear on the Harrison is a little offset towards the centre - that is more prone to protrusion than the LHS. Importantly is was registered and drives superbly on the road - like the proverbial 'rock'. 2000ks with no probs.

Merv

byroncobra · #17 10-31-2009, 02:48 AM

Merv, I spent an interesting morning at Matts' place, aka spookypt.

We put my Dragways on his Harrison and found to my surprise that they fit fine, just tucking inside the guards.

The only explanation that was confirmed by Scott at Venom is that I must have a R33 rear end. I had been told by the guy that i bought the car from that it is an R32 and he's ordered the wheels to suit Warricks spec.

So the lesson is don't assume that what one's told is correct.

The R33 is wider than the R32 (as I think you already know)

Anyway, Matts' RF Racing 17" wheels with +50mm offset (plus a 25mm spacer) are a perfect fit. Not Hallibrands but apart from the wrong colour look pretty smick. The next question is, will Mr Cross accept spacers? If not I'll leave them off for rego.

I'll persevere as you did with your wheel combo, I still can't fathom how you tucked them under the guard, i'll revisit this after paint. She's off to Des the painter in a few weeks......should be home before Chrissy for trimming up.

07cob · #18 10-31-2009, 03:42 AM

Greg

The R32 camber arm has a 'ring' for the shock to pass through (ala the links Sambo supplied in your other post), while the R33 has a camber arm that runs around the front (or back - I'm not sure) of the shock. Given Merv's experience and yours, I guess the 32 and 33 rears are different widths.

Geof

byroncobra · #19 10-31-2009, 04:01 AM

Oooohhhhh no Geof, there goes my theory. The shocky and spring pass through the ring.
Are you sure there's not a couple of arm configurations for a R33?

WKB · #20 10-31-2009, 05:11 AM

Greg,
What chassis number have you got? Should be able to work out if it R32 or R33 from when it was made.

Warren

Rog246 · #21 10-31-2009, 05:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 07cob

Greg

The R32 camber arm has a 'ring' for the shock to pass through (ala the links Sambo supplied in your other post), while the R33 has a camber arm that runs around the front (or back - I'm not sure) of the shock. Given Merv's experience and yours, I guess the 32 and 33 rears are different widths.

Geof

Hi guys, I'm putting a R33 rear end in my Harrison & Warwick tells me that there is 10mm difference between an R32 & R33, with the '33 being the wider of the 2. Therefore I'm going to need adjustable camber arms to make it work. That was never going to be an issue for me as I have already bought all adjustable arms to I can adjust Camber,toe & caster as well.
Hope it helps

Rog246

byroncobra · #22 10-31-2009, 03:57 PM

Warren
It's #38, about 2004 vintage, having sat in a workshop for a few years before i bought it in 2008.
Rog
Yeah, i recon a bit more than 10mm, if indeed mine is an R33. Anyway, I think I'll grab a set of adjustable arms as you have done. Hopefully I'll be able to squeeze the Dragways inside the guard with these. Be careful with offset measurements if you havent bought your wheels yet. With R32, Warwicks' 130mm recommendation is about right but if R33 you need to decrease this to around 110mm. Also remember that if using Dragways Hallibrand lookalikes that you may have issues with the 'spokes' hitting the brake caliper.
Greg

Rog246 · #23 10-31-2009, 04:42 PM

Greg, I'll go find some i/v's for what I bought. I'm very happy with the quality of what I bought, its all well made & well finished, so I'll let you know
Rog

byroncobra · #24 10-31-2009, 04:55 PM

Rog
Sorry, i/v's?
Where and what sort of $ for your camber adjusters?

Merv and Sharon · #25 10-31-2009, 10:47 PM

Well Greg and Geof that certainly confirms our previous suspicions about the R32/33. The other 'test' is the ratio (4.1 compared to 4.3 respectively. I have counted mine over 10 rotations with both rear wheels raised).

So far I have had no problems with the wheels touching the arches, despite some spirited cornering and round-about work! Brilliant handling. No track work thou'.

Merv

Zedn · #26 11-01-2009, 12:01 AM

Quote:

The next question is, will Mr Cross accept spacers?

Plain spacers are not allowed. They put extra stress on the studs (debatable) and kill wheel bearings.

You may be allowed to use billet adapters that have lower profile nuts for your studs and then have their own studs, but you will need to check that. Either way, make sure whatever spacer you use is hubcentric so there are no balance issue's. Many claim to be stud centric, but from what i hear that is bogus.

Best bet as you say is just to leave them off (provided there is no clearance issues.

Be carefull with modifying camber to make them fit, an incorrect camber adjustment will qickly cost you more in tyres than new wheels and handling will be no good.

Have you thought about sticking the wheels on ebay and starting again? Or maybe they can be modified by dragway?

Liam

Rog246 · #27 11-01-2009, 12:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by byroncobra

Rog
Sorry, i/v's?
Where and what sort of $ for your camber adjusters?

Greg I bought toe rod arms @ $135, Traction arms @ $135 from japonauto ( holford30@hotmail.com) via Ebay & rear upper camber arms @ $125 from 999 Automotive, also Ebay.
They have stuff up there all the time AND they're in BrisVegas to boot
hope this helps you
Rog

WKB · #28 11-02-2009, 02:52 AM

Greg,
Another option is to use a camber adjustment kit from Fulcrum Suspension. They replace the bushes in the top comtrol arm. They are used for a coarse adjustment and use the existing camber adjustment for the fine adjustment. The part no. is SPF1869K. I used them in mine. I have an 1 deg neg camber on the rear(there is more adjustment left if required). I paid $260 for the kit for both sides, but that was a few years ago.

Warren

byroncobra · #29 11-03-2009, 03:09 PM

I spoke to Whiteline and Fulcram (thanks Warren) yesterday.
After sending a pic to Whiteline they identified the rear end as an S13 out of a Nissan 180sx, also know as a Sylvia. They tell me that they're commonly used in drift cars and often sold as R32s by wreckers. Pretty much the same animal only a little wider.........so that partly explains why the tyres sit outside the guards.
Anyway, I'm ordering a set of upper and lower camber arms to see if i can tuck the wheels in.
My final option is to get Dragway to reweld the centres to change the offset.
$370 for both inc freight to Vic.

Aussie Mike · #30 11-03-2009, 03:39 PM

If you are ordering shorter arms don't forget to check you have enough axle plunge with your existing axles. You don't want to bottom out the axle in the spline in the CV.

I messed around getting this right on my shortened rear end setup. My first axle setup didn't have enough movement in the axle.

Cheers