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Dual sump "Fox" oil pan
Anyone has a good advice on what oil pan to use for a 347 stroker going roadracing in tight turns?
360 degree turns around cones as fast as possible makes my oil pressure reach the number 0. (Have not seen any signs on damage on the engine yet, so I keep my fingers crossed...) Need to trap the oil around the pick up, seriously. Is Canton better than Milodon? Is...X better than Y? After fabricating my own pan from a OE Fox pan, I think I'd let the thinking over to the experts. Input is welcome. |
I am still running the factory dual sump pan on the 351W crate engine in our coupe and have run it on the track at R&G as well as the autocross, oil pressure never budged. The pans were behind in delivery when I assembled the Coupe and is still sitting in a box. I may or may not install it. It's nice, but I think the moving baffle plates seem kind of heavy and have no issues with the stock pan since we primarily use it as a touring car.
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Use the Canton road race pan with the trap doors.
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Hi, Brent.
You're not the first one to come up with this suggestion, which might mean this is the way to go. Canton seems to be the 1. choice when you ask around. What about an accusump? Something useful or? |
Definitely wouldn't hurt. That way, if there is a situation where you dip oil pressure, it will make up for it. It's also good for pre-cold-start conditions.
If you would like a Canton pan, shoot me an email. I'll get you a price. brent@b2motorsportsllc.com |
If you go with a Canton pan, be sure to pressure test it before installation. I personally know of 3 Fox body pans that had leaky welds. They're a pain in the ass to fix once they're on the car.....
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I will agree on that, Doug.....
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I had to rebuild my engine ( mostly stock 351W) due to to an oil pump shaft failure during my very first run on an autocross course. Consequently I installed a Canton oil pan and an Accusump. I've run it on many autocross and road race courses since then with no oil pressure problems. BTW, I also added a big red light in front of the driver that illuminates when the oil pressure is low. I wouldn't take the chance of allowing the oil pressure to drop to zero during a run. It could get very expersive very fast.
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The canton pan is an excellent design. A lot of people (me included) have had problems with their quality control. Most are good, but some are not.
Gordon Levy makes an excellent pan specifically for this reason. Breeze sells a pan designed by Quality Roadsters, and built by Canton. This is what I use. Originally, I didn't have an Accusump. Then I spun a rod bearing due to an oiling failure. Now I have an Accusump, and oiling is not a problem. I wouldn't road race without one. |
for any type of really hard sloshing - accusump. -- anything else is just a bandaid.
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Hi. Thought of something the other day: Will the Canton (or Moroso or whatever) roadracing oil sump clear my 4 bolt mains? There's 4 bolts on all the mains, and I had to widen the OE sump at one of the bearinghousings (cannot remember which). It's a World block. Anyone experienced with this?
Hva not installed the Accusump yet. Testing so far (with 10-60 synthetic oil) shows no sign of oil-starvation. |
I have 4 bolt mains on my 351 Dart block. I called Canton and they make a pan to fit but it was on back order and expensive. I went with Armando's instead. So far so good.
Bill Stradtner |
Quote:
Yes and no, it'll clear fine on one side, but the side with the crank scraper built in will hit on the main caps, you'll need to take a hammer and give it a few love taps and bend it in towards the pan, no big deal, did mine like that,no problems.... I also installed an oil pressure warning light, bought a sending unit set at 20 psi, anything from 20 psi and less red light comes on.....only time I've seen it on is when starting the car, once started and oil pressure exceeds 20 psi (which takes about one second) light goes off, never seen it come on on a road course or autocross course.....I'm running the Canton 8 quart road race pan with the trap doors, I like it, never leaked a drop of oil either....... David |
A common clearance issue spot on a stroker is the left rear pan rail (and scraper). Install the pan without a gasket. Spin it over a couple of times. Take it back off and check for rub marks. A ball peen hammer will fix that.
10W-60 oil is pretty heavy. You're wasting a lot of energy moving it around. And putting a lot of strain on the drive mechanism. Don't be too surprised if you shear a distributer gear pin. |
That's alot of good input.
I run the cars original 1970 oil warning light sender. It doesn't go off until oilpressure is 6 kg's (alot of PSI)! which means that it's on permanently.... Maybe it need to be changed? Looks like one of those "standard" canton sumps can be easily modifies to fit, then. I'll stick with one of those. Yes, 10-60 is heavy & sticky. At least the oilpressure is OK at idle and no 0-pressure turns have come up after I started using it. Might switch to 20-50 mineral, though, which is almost as heavy.. |
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