|
Seems pretty clear now.
My mate took my in a Group C around Hockenheim (short circuit) and even though the wet sump was extensively modified he had to back off like Tom due to "0" oil pressure. And it took "ages" to recover. We have yet to see a wet sump able to cope with those g-forces... Surely your son was too preoccupied to race rather than watching the oil pressure gage. (you can't blame him for that) |
The gauges were the last thing he was looking at. It will be a fairly expensive lesson, but they always cost "Something".
|
Sorry to hear this, Rick. :(
I will try the Canton pan this year. If I see the same sort of oil pressure fluctation as previous years more serious steps have to be taken. But I fear that Tom is right; for high G- forces the accusump (or dry sump) is the way to go... When you say the Canton design iznogood, Tom, are you reffering to the same design as this sump? http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/smal...ml#post1170812 |
Caprimaniac,
Quote:
I have been told the Aviaid or Armando pans are better, but haven't tried one yet. My guess is that the stock pan is no worse, and may even be better :confused: If you're doing track days, I'd strongly recommend doing something to upgrade the oiling system! Tom |
I used a baffled of the shelf pan.......eventually I made my own with two gallon plus capacity, baffles, self modified pickup utilizing the factory head pickup and screen...no problems since. I do not like the acrapers because the oil is better used on the lifters and cam. The online oil cooler also serves to prevent bubbles making there way to the crank.
|
Quote:
Do like the NASCAR boys do with their gauges, orient them where as when on track,your needle for each gauge should be pointing straight up when under way,that way,one quick glance and if all needles are pointing straight up, everyhting is "normal:, if one is too much to one side or the other, you quickly know to give it a second look as something is not right..... As to pans, I've used the exact same Canton road race pan (8 qt.,baffles/trap doors)(front sump) on my road race 66 couple and street car 65 Fastback......never have seen the oil pressure waiver a bit and I've purposely watched the gauge in hard sweeping turns.....also,had my in-car camera focused on the gauges during a few races to check this out, oil pressure never moved more than 5 psi thru the rpm range.. David |
Gauge panel in the race car, similar on in my street car.......
Davidhttp://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...8MVC-004S1.JPG |
David,
Thanks for the insight: Quote:
I have spoken to Canton at the PRI show more than once about the 385 series pan and they said they had no test data so if it doesn't work, well, it doesn't work... So maybe it works OK on the small-block but not on the big block? I have heard from other 385 racers who won't use the Canton pans for the same reason; perhaps Canton's other pans are better. Not sure I'd risk an engine after my experiences. Certainly not a 385. Tom |
Tom;
Speaking of the Canton oil pan, I was refering that to Rick/his son with the small block in a Mustang....... I have no idea about their pan for the 385 series enignes......... Any pan used for performance driving needs to have a bigger capacity and a windage tray and most importantly, baffled area with gates where the pickup goes in the bottom of the pan to keep the oil there.....If the pan does not have this, it would be no better than a factory stock pan...... David |
David,
That was my point. Quote:
I'd really like to find a good pan for the 385 engines. It may be that the longer stroke (4.3" and 4.5") makes it tougher to accomplish. Tom |
I'm using a Canton RR pan with my FE as well as my Boss 302 and even with an extra quart in the FE pan it I can lose OP in a sustained corner, even some freeway ramps. The B302 doesn't have that problem. Of course the B302 can't get the sort of lateral Gs that the Cobra can either.
|
Quote:
Switch to a small block and get rid of all your oiling problems!!!!!!!!!**):LOL:;):3DSMILE::p Serouisly,I have no idea why this would happen to the big blocks, only possible thing I can think of is the depth of the pan, maybe just too shallow????? David |
Quote:
|
Quote:
David |
What's the latest Rick? Get the rest of the engine torn down?
|
Locked up oil pump. Piece of metal in the pump. Unable to identify where it came from or what it was??? The engine had been run pretty hard before he got the car. He replaced the cam, roller lifters, timing chain & gears and the pan. Subsequent tack day went well until a Throttle Position Sensor conked out.
|
| All times are GMT -7. The time now is 12:28 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
The representations expressed are the representations and opinions of the clubcobra.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Shelby American, any other replica manufacturer, Ford Motor Company. This website has been planned and developed by clubcobra.com and its forum members and should not be construed as being endorsed by Ford Motor Company, or Shelby American or any other manufacturer unless expressly noted by that entity. "Cobra" and the Cobra logo are registered trademarks for Ford Motor Co., Inc. clubcobra.com forum members agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s). Thank you for visiting clubcobra.com. For full policy documentation refer to the following link: