Club Cobra - 91-95 351 windsor

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91-95 351 windsor

This engine has a block stamping FOAE-AA that I think puts it right around 91-95The question is, do these blocks have a 4 bolt main or two bolt and are they any better or worse than the earlier 351w blocks?

Thanks,

Glenn

2 bolt non roller block. better in regards to.........?

Quote:

Originally Posted by menace1 (Post 1180863)

2 bolt. I would prefer an older block for a performance build....

Quote:

Originally Posted by menace1 (Post 1180863)

I'm pretty sure all factory 351-W blocks are 2 bolt main blocks.The blocks made from 1969 to 1974 had a little more "meat" in the bottom end in the area of the mains,in 1975 they changed the castings and from then on the blocks are basically the same.
With that said,I know a guy that's a big time drag racer running a 351-W block based engine,he told me he uses whatever blocks he can find and didn't see any real difference from the early blocks to the later made blocks,he said they all blow eventually with the kind of HP he makes...
If you can find an early block, get it,if not,don't worry about it,use what you can find....

David

The 1969-1970 blocks had a shorter deck height on them, making it harder to get pistons for them. I have one in my car. They have a higher nickle content in them making the blocks a little better than the newer ones.You may want to look into a roller block because of no zinc in late oils.

You can run a roller cam in any block.....even the oldest of old. Just run link bar lifters. :)

Quote:

Originally Posted by blykins (Post 1180944)

You can run a roller cam in any block.....even the oldest of old. Just run link bar lifters. :)

like this set-up in a 1970 block.......http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...engine_032.JPG

Thanks for the info guys, I'm pulling the pan off this weekend and installing a H/V Melling oil pump with a H/D pump shaft and while i'm at it, checking the main bearing clearances with plastic gauge. The reason for all of this is to get idle pressures up from 17 lbs to 20+ and when taching 5-6 G I'd like to see 55+ from the current 38 when hot. Also changing the restrictive oil filter adapter to one made be Beaumont Metals that is far better relieved than the stock unit.
Thanks to Brent for parts help on the pump and shaft...

Glenn

Quote:

Originally Posted by menace1 (Post 1180967)

A H/V oil pump will not increase your oil pressure, just ask the Mellings people, it will increase the volume of oil pumped, thats it....oil pressure is more closely related to bearing clearances and type/weight oil used....... I run a standard volume Mellings HP series oil pump...on start-up, my oil pressure instantly goes to 60 psi,once the oil is warmed to around 150 or more degrees, my idle oil pressure is around 30 to 35 psi, at rpms above 2000, it sits steady on 55 psi...
My guess is your low idle oil pressure could be from type oil pump you have or a worn oil pump along with more than normal bearing clerances or worn bearings...you would also need to check the crankshaft journals to make sure they are within specs and not worn also,putting new bearings on a worn crank is only a bandaid fix,pressure may go up for a while,but will eventually get back to your oil pressure readings you have now.....

David

The HV and HP oil pumps used in racing also have blocks with relieved oil galleries and radiused corners in them. If all the trick work is left out, all the pump does is churn harder against the restrictions and use more horsepower, with no real improvement in oiling.

As said, it's really all about bearing clearances.

Don't forget the upgraded relief spring utilized in the High pressure pumps too.

I think the dimensions of the gerotors and internals of the HV pump for 289/302 is the same as the standard volume 351 Windsor pump. Consequently they move the same amount of oil at the same RPM's.