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Carb linkeage options
I am looking to lose the cable set up. I like the linkeage I see on many of the cars pictured here which use a rod/rod end/bracket set up. Are there specific ones that best fit these cars?
thx |
Buy 3/8 or 7/16 OD steel (preferable) or aluminum rod (McMaster), 5/16 / 24 x 5/16 hole rod ends (Summit, Jegs or McMaster), size rod, tap ends, add jam nuts. Fasten to linkage with 5/16 grade 8 bolt(s). Allow for adjustment.
http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/v...80002Large.jpg |
Chas-thx, what about from there to the pedal? What does that set up look like?
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http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/v...0006cLarge.jpg http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/v...e/24cLarge.jpg Acton's stuff is male threaded rod and female ends-your preference. Just get rid of cables... |
Chas-perfect thx for the help, SWEET ride You have there BTW:D
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If you want a 60's erra look, linkage is the way to go, but be warned. When a motor mount broke, the engine would raise up and pull the throttle open. I have seen many remedies. Drill the mount and put a bolt through it, chain between frame and engine, etc. If you go linkage, make sure engine stays put when a mount breaks.
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And also make sure the pedal has a positive stop on the floorboard.
All accelerator pedals should have one, not all cars do due to poor design. |
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http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/v...ROTTLESTOP.jpg |
Needs to be under the pedal, otherwise you bend everything else prior to the stop.
All of my cars have stops under the pedal, no added stress to linkages, carbs or throttle bodies. |
You can see the threaded stop on these gas pedals.
Gas Pedal for Contemporary [] - $250.00 : Acton Custom Enterprises, Custom Metal for Cobras |
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Nothing wrong with pedal stops either. Wouldn't have it on my car or suggested it if it didn't work.;) |
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