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Engine Trouble
Wondering if anyone can suggest a cause or possible solution (or what to investigate) for the following problem. I was driving yesterday at 50km/hr and my engine just shut off after stumbling for maybe 2 seconds. Won't restart, had to get towed home. Here are the details...T&L 347 stroker, 650 AED carb, Pentronix coil and Ignitor II distributor. Car has only 50km on it, still in the tuning phase but it was running good. Still getting 5psi fuel, 12V at the coil, wires and plugs are good but it seems like I am getting intermittent spark but that may be my testing method. I am by no means a mechanic but I am leaning towards the distributor for the cause. Any other ideas where to start?
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Very basic start. Just because you have fuel pressure, it does not mean the Carb is full of fuel. Filters can plug, floats can stick. Pull air filter, so you can see the accelerator pump's spray nozzle. Open the throttle and make sure it sprays fuel. Smell the fuel and make sure is smells like gasoline.
You need to see if you are getting spark at the plugs. They make a light you can plug in, but you can always use an old spark plug (that works) and ground it. Crank it and make sure you get a hot spark that is steady. You should see a spark every other revolution. I expect one of these tests will fail. That will tell if it is fuel or ignition. Then go from there. The distributor itself is mechanical and not likely to be a problem. Lot's of things in the ignition system to go wrong and it depends on exactly what ignition system you have as to how to trouble shoot deeper. I have had a key switch fail. Thought it was everything other than it. Replaced everything else trying to find it. So don't jump to assumptions. It costs a lot to replace everything that is not bad. |
As Olddog indicated, the symptoms could be any number of things. The coil would be high on my list of things to check out.
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If you are running an aftermarket electronic ignition spark module (MSD, Crane, etc.) then check the ground connections. While you’re at it, check all grounds (especially at the battery).
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Definitely have fuel in the carb, going to check out the coil and all the grounds next. Thanks guys.
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Firstly, check the rotor button spins while cranking the engine.
Then start looking at the electrics. Gary |
[quote=kevins2;1464562]As Olddog indicated, the symptoms could be any number of things. The coil would be high on my list of things to check out.[/QUOTE
Agree with Kevin - coils going bad will work fine on a cold start up and when they warm up then start failing. Let them cool off and they will work OK until hot again. Eventually they just go kaput. If that is the pattern you are seeing then trying a different coil is a good idea. |
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Not sure what you have for a computer module, but on my CR I had an aluminum
box on the firewall (replaced at NAPA for about $80.), that when heat soaked, even when running, like at a stop light, would shut the engine down. When it cooled down in time (or a quick cool by putting a water soaked rag on it) the car would start and run just fine until it got warm again. Replaced it and no more problems in that arena. Good luck! |
Years ago about 1999 . The car died at an intersection . Another motorist helped me push my car to the side. turns out, he operated a nearby garage. I was at a loss so I let him repair at his garage. The glass fuse holder strip had a bad contact and needed replacement. I've since replaced the whole wiring system with different type of fuses with cover. (historically warranted modifications) That has not been a problem since.
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May want to verify that the coil and pertronix are compatible. Pertronix modules will fail, but sometimes its a broken wire inside the insulation (ask me how I know). If the coil gets HOT right after starting, check primary coil resistance to verify that it matches the requirements of the pertronix.
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