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You need to be specific about your goals. Even a mild 347 with a mild H/R cam and a half-decent set of heads will get close to 500 FWHP. I'm sure.....I've built thousands of them. 500 H/P in that car, if you're not prepared for it can be a life-limiting revelation. So this depends entirely on how you're going to drive it. |
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No one has commented on the Blueprint engines.
They are sold through Jegs and Summit. We just tore down a $6100 347 Blue Print motor sold by Jegs. We know it had 5,000 miles on it but think it may have had less than a thousand miles when Ron bought the car last year. We are guessing 6,000. The second time Ron wound it up through third gear one of the .040" hypereutectic piston broke a piece out of the top. Common problem with Hypereutectic pistons if the rings are not gaped correct. I had two engine mechanic to look at it. They said the rings were gaped to tight for the amount of heat build up when running the motor hard. One builder said he ran a Chev with hypereutectic pistons on his drag car for two years with no problem but he gaped the rings more than recommended. The crank and rods are cast, Melling oil pump, MSD distributor, Holley carb, cast cam that was being eat up because the distributor gear was steel, Edelbrock fuel pump, all the other parts have no numbers on them or they are the cheapest part available. This is the only Blue Print motor I have seen. Make your own decision. We are having the motor rebuild with forged pistons and a new cam. Ron over paid for the Mustang and does not want to buy a new motor. |
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These are known as self correcting problems that, over time, can clean up the gene pool ... Ed |
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No different than Jasper or others. Assembly line engines. You get what you pay for. |
Wow thread was hijacked sorry. I looked into engines sold on line, mass production type. Did a ton of searching before I settled on an engine. I'm blessed to have a few good friends who race sprint and drag cars, also tractor pullers. One thing they all said, internal engine components must be forged. I used Callies crank and rods and JE pistons, Isky Red zone lifters and Milodon gear drive. I spent double what I would've spent if I had bought an off the shelf engine. I do not regret spending the extra money, I don't believe the engines on line would have the performance my current engine has. Just my 2 cents.
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Crown is a big supporter of Blueprint motors...
Question I have is resale value of a SPF with BP motor or a Roush Motor. Years ago Roush had lots of problems. Now they seem less problematic. What are your thoughts? Thanks Jeff |
I will not say who you should use but I will say the 408 seams to be the magic number for takes a licken and keeps on ticking motor. Good luck.
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4.030 bore_4.170 stroke_6.200 rod_AFR 205 or 220 head_427ci Windsor. You won't need more than 5,800 rpm.
Cam it right and you have well over 600 hp and have 550+ ft lbs of torque. If you can't scare yourself with that in a relic, you can't be scared. Just remember...you don't steer.....you aim. We did that combination for Shelby when they were trying to set an IROC style series for Shelbys. Mario Andretti and Parnelli Jones told them to take power out if they wanted them to drive them again. |
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I have no idea. They drove them, he didn't. |
one of my buddies found this video
BluePrint Engines Factory Full Tour & Behind The Scenes: How Does a Crate Engine Get Made? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jzr2U8bGpvc&feature=youtu.be[/url] |
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The girdles might slow it down a tad, but they certainly won't eliminate it. |
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