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289 build questions
I have a few questions concerning my 289 project. I purchase a 64' 289 short block about a year & a half ago & until now it has been sitting wrapped in plastic in my garage. It was rebuilt at 40 over on the cylinder, 10 under on the crank & has 9 to 1 cast pistons. I plan to put the car together for street use primarily but with decent performance characteristics. I am looking to go all out with this engine I just want it to be street fast & sound good. I am looking at this ford racing cam...
Advertised duration: 280 intake/290 exhaust Duration at .050 in. cam lift: 204 intake/214 exhaust Gross valve lift: .448 in. intake/.472 in. exhaust Lobe separation: 107 degrees intake/117 degrees exhaust Peak horsepower rpm: 4,750 Peak torque rpm: 3,500 RPM range: 2,500-5,500 I would also like to use the cast iron Ford racing heads with 60cc combustion chambers, 1.84 in. intake/1.46 in. exhaust valves I also would like advise on to or not to use arp bolts on the mains. I will be using them on the rods & will likely go with arp studs for the heads. The bottom end is already assembled with what are probably stock fasteners Any other suggestions would also be helpful |
I just recently built my 289. I used a comp cam with 512 lift, had my heads redone with 194/160 chevy valves & stiff springs. Also
installed comp hyd lifters. I got 250 hp & 265 torque at the rear wheels. I think the motor would run better with a 550 lift cam. Then I installed a used supercharger & am extreemly happy. With 8 pounds of boost I got 330 hp & 375 torque at the rear wheels. Jay |
TP, The cam is a little mild. You may want to check into the Comp Cams extreme energy #246. Very nice split duration and makes nice power. Also has a nice rumpety sound at idle. I use a lot of them on the small blocks and make good power. The new SVO GT40p heads are really nice on the small block and are cheap. We picked up about 20hp over the stock 351 head on the dyno. I would definitly upgrade the rod bolts. It does mean dissassembly of the engine but if you are going to try and develope any power the stock bolts will be a weak point. A good ignition system like the MSD distributor and 6A box will help power also. If you have room the Performer RPM manifold is excellent along with the Edelbrock carb. This combo should give you around 310 to 320hp.
One thing to check on the block is if you have the 5 or 6 bolt bellhousing. The 5 bolt was very limited and not much available from the aftermarket. This may determine what you will need to do for the trans. Don |
Thanks Jay & Don,
It is a five bolt block. So no on the main bolts but yes on the rod bolts? I will take you up on the cam suggestion. Sounds like what I want. TDo you think I will have any chance of clearance problems? I have flat pistons with reliefs. I have a trans builder lined up who says he can build me a 65 toploader which has both bolt patterns in case I decide to change later. |
I have another question!? This motor did not come with a balancer. Do you think I should go with a stock replacement given my application? & do I have to have the whole assembly balanced by a shop once I purchase the flywheel & balancer?
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TP, the main bolts should be ok. The 5 bolt block refers to the back of the engine where the bellhousing bolts to. Make sure you purchase a 28oz balancer and flywheel. There are 2 types of balance you can do on the engine. Static which is a weight balance for the rods and pistons and rotating which is for the crank, balancer, and flywheel. Normally this is all done by a good machine shop but you should make sure they can do the rotating. I had a shop doing my balance work years ago and found out he only did half the job.
If the pistons have valve reliefs you should be ok but I would check the clearance to be sure. There are a couple of ways to do this. If you're not sure I would have a pro do it for safety. The trans will bolt up to any engine if you have the proper bellhousing. You need to make sure you have the 5 bolt bell for your engine. Don |
Don't take this 5 bolt vs 6 bolt bellhousing issue lightly, or you'll be all dressed up with noplace to go.
Ford (in its infinite wisdom) used a 5 bolt bellhousing in their 221's, 260's, and early 289's. They mated to BW T-10 4 speeds. In the '65 1/2 or '66 model year, Ford switched to a 6 bolt bellhousing which is consistent with the 289, 302, and 351 from '66 on. You can use your '64 block IF you have matching bellhousing and T-10 trans. Otherwise, scrounge up a '66 or later block. (Or use a 302 block, and put a 289 crank in it). Guys trying to upgrade their '64 Falcon Sprints, and Comet Cyclones found this out the hard way. |
I used the GT40-P heads on my 64 Fairlane to good effect. I did port the exhaust side a bit and matched them to the RPM manifold as well as porting the HiPo manifolds to match. It's entertaining.
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