48IDA Weber positive throttle stop
 

I am looking for suggestions on different ways and the best ways to mount a positive throttle linkage stop for my 48 IDA Weber induction system form Inglese. Pictures welcome !

I'm currently in the same situation. Keep you informed. Maybe next Saturday some pics will be available (if I have the time ....)

I'm interested in the setup of your 48IDA. Could you please let me know the details ? Mine is also from Inglese.

Walter

Walt347, I have an aftermarket 4 bolt main Dart block bored/stroked to 427cu. in. I am running AFR 205 aluminum heads. Compression is 10.2:1. Valvetrain is a complete roller setup starting with a Cam Techniques HR352-10 cam, Crane roller lifters and 1.6:1 rockers. Induction system is a Weber 48IDA setup from Inglese, stock finish, 21/2" spun aluminum stacks w/filter screens. I have the 8 port (underneath manifold) vacuum system to run my power brakes. Full MSD ignition system. Mallory low pressure electric fuel pump. I am making my own custom crankcase breather system with a catch can. Trans/clutch goes like this - Lakewood bellhousing, aluminum flywheel, centerforce dual friction clutch, TKO II trans and a pro 5.0 shifter.

Guys, I've decided today that I want to purchase the Inglese Weber set up for my Windsor. My engine has a stock bottom end, trick flow heads and a great cam grind. I spoke to Inglese today and they suggested I purchase the Windsor "kit' all set up to my engine specifications. Sounds like good advise. I have a rear main seal leak, so I plan to trash the crank for a stroker (maybe 383 or 396, something that doesn't require block mods) and add the Weber kit. I'll have to check my cam stats to see if it's compatible in duration and lobe separation. Does this sound like a viable plan? Am I overlooking some potential grief-generating issues? Some of the builders I've spoken to give the Weber set up a really bad rap with regards to tuning and changes in weather. Inglese says "not to worry. Set it up right and it's as good as any carburation system". So ya'll agree?

Inglese is correct on the setup not needing much after you get it tuned. You must have a cam with a mild setup...nothing radical.

My personal preference is I only deal with Inglese if I have to...others have had good experience with them but I haven't.

The webers are very unforgiving to exhaust leaks so if you have any you need to get them fixed...You also should probably look at a return fuel line if you don't have one....if you don't run one you get varnish on the carbs.

I am not sure what everyone is looking for on the positive throttle stop..are you trying to stop the pedal travel at full throttle or the idle?

Matt

Wow, Inglese seems to be back in business .... thanks to the new 48IDAs ?!

Tony, you should also check whether your distributor cap is not too large. I had to change mine (additional $$$).

Based on my experience with Inglese I strongly recommend to buy any non-Weber parts (cam, ignition system, lifters, ....) somewhere else in order to save some money.

It's also worth comparing the prices of the Webers. Pierce Manifolds sells them as well.

Matt, I'm trying to stop the pedal travel at full throttle.

Regards,

Walter

Thanks Walter. I'm really struggling here. I don't want to go too far with this. I don't want to change my cam if I can get away with it. I spoke to Enzo and he agreed that it's probably in my best interest to purchase the complete top end setup with linkage and everything for $4,500 from Inglese. My existing cam is a hydro with a very nice lope to it. If duration and separation fit in line with what the guys at Inglese recommend, I want to leave as much as I can the same. I'm probably screwed with my existing distributor. It's pretty huge.

OK what are the specs on the cam...I can tell you that webers will get rid of most of the lop sound...kind of even it out.

You can also purchase a complete setup from Pierce out of California or you can speak with Cal Metal who sometimes has a complete set.

For the full throttle stop I guess I don't have that problem.....I just mash the pedal and it stops when the carbs linkage won't open anymore :)

I would think one of the easiest things to do is get a rubber bumper like stop on the end of allthread that goes through the footwell and you can adjust it in and out...that should work? Did it make sense?

matt

Tony, sorry it was not my intention to confuse you. I only wanted to share my experience with you. I bought a complete system of 48IDAs from Inglese last year and I'm more than happy with it. For me it was important to have a system available that can be easily installed because I wasn't so familiar with Webers at that time. In addtion to that it was also never my intention to completely overhaul the engine. What can be used should be used.

But now after having gone through this process I would buy the single components (carbs, linkage, fuel line, manifold) instead of a complete system. This way, I think, a lot of $$$ can be saved.

The factory setup/jetting of the Webers is a street setup and not that different from Inglese's setup. Jets and tubes can be easily purchased and changed based on your's and your Cobra's preferences - you even have to change the jets of a "ready-to-bolt-on" (complete) system because each Weber system (in combination with the engine, ignition, air filters .....) is a unique one.

So be aware of the fact that you even will have to fine tune a complete "ready- to-bolt-on" system.

The following cam was advised by Inglese (Dan Miller):

Intake 0.298 at cam .477 at valve
Exhaust 0.298 at cam 0.477 at valve

Intake 290 degree advertised 222 degree at .050 cam lift
Exhaust 290 degree advertised 222 degree at .050 cam lift

However, I decided to use the my "old" cam:

Advertised duration: 288 intake/288 exhaust
Duration @ .050 in. cam lift: 226 intake/226 exhaust
Gross valve lift: .512 intake/.512 exhaust
Lobe separation: 109 degrees intake/119 degrees exhaust
Peak horsepower rpm: 6,000
Peak torque rpm: 2,800
Fair idle

It's a Ford Motorsport roller tappets camshaft (M6250F303).

I hope this is some helpful advice .... and one thing is for sure:

"Webers forever !!!" ..... the look, the sound, the smell ......

Best regards,

Walter


Matt, thanks for your ideas on how to install such a stop mechanism. I'll try it out.

Best regards,

Walter

Walter,

I'm getting excited over the thought of the Weber kit. Hey, I'd love to get the parts as opposed to spending the extra money for the pre-integrated kit. I don't have the patience or skill to set them up, so I'll have to rely on a qualified tech to do it for me. Any way I do it, it looks like I'll be dropping a load of cash. Is your system pretty stable? Or do you find yourself having to "tinker" with the set up to keep it operating smoothly? My builder of choice is Southern Automotive here in the Atlanta area. They built my engine and have set up Webers before. They recommend against them stating that they won't hold a tune for squat. I really appreciate your insight and experience on this.

T

Matt,

I will post my cam specs tonight. I have the spec sheet at home. I like the idea of not having to remove any more of the engine components than is necessary, though I'm probably kidding myself.

Matt,

I just checked with Pierce and they are considerably cheaper and way faster. They sell the AT Francis manifold. They also don't seem to be nearly as anal about cam specs. Should that worry me? They say to send in my set up and they will do the rest. The guy also mentioned that they've shipped 7 set ups for Cobras and GT40s in the past month.

Tony,

Yes, my system is pretty stable. But I have to admit that I haven't totally finished the setup procedure so far. A Dyno test has still to be done. Having some help available is a very important issue. In addition to the Weber guys (Matt, CalMetal and others) I know from the Cobra forum I can count on the assistance of two friends. Both are more than familiar with 2x2 or 3x2 DCOE and IDA/IDF Webers (Alfa Romeo - italian vintage and race cars). I wasn't able to perform all the work by myself.

Many, many thanks to all of you !

Regards,

Walter

Guys, my cam specs are as follows:
Cam lift: Int.-.320
Exh.-.320
Valve lift: Int.-.512
Exh.-.512
Lobe Ctrs: Int.-107
Exh.-111
.050 Dur. Int.-230
Exh.-230
It's a hydraulic cam.

Think I'm safe?

I've spent some time cruising the forum archives on the subject of Weber carbs on Ford V8s and the sense I get is that very few people are running them. Those that are running them, and that were successful at getting them set up correctly, seem to be elated at the performance, sound, looks etc. I wish the decision was more of a "slam dunk" for me. It will stretch me budget wise.

you need to make sure you know that the initial cost will not be the only cost. Remember every engine is different and you will buy different jets...each change on the carbs costs ~$40 bucks...remember you have 8 of everything.

I can't remember but I think the lift on your cam is going to be too much...I remember pierce told me that anything over 300 would get alot of pop back through the carbs...

I believe mine is a 295/605 and I get some...it would probably run better if I dropped the cam down one level.

Matt