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Engine Burping
Got a 351W and I just fired it up for the first time. Using a 180 deg Thermostat it ran hot, ran about 215. Went to a 160 deg thermo and now it runs at about 185-190. This is idling and with the fan on; as car is not yet finished.
Spoke to an engine builder I know and his take is the problem is air in the system. I tried burping it using a barbed fitting at the thermo housing in place of the heater hose plug. I attached a piece of 3/8 " hose to it that went above the filler neck. That seemed to get a lot of air out but it still seems to be running hot. Any recommendations as far as burping, burping methods,or anything else I should look for to try to get the temp down. Tony |
Tony, I'm no expert, but I believe one trick is to drill a small hole in the thermostat. My engine builder did..... HTH
Shaps |
Ditto on the small hole in the flat part of the thermostat.
auto10x Bill |
1/8 " and let the engine stand for a moment as you add fluid.
Works well. |
Tony,
Same here, I have done this on mine and have done it on many of my cars in the past. Make sure that the hole is located at the top when installed. I had a cooling problem when mine was new until I got a few hundred miles on it, at some points I was pushing 220+ in traffic or stopped, then I changed to a 160 'stat from a 180 and it brought me down a few degrees and I haven't had temps like that again. One of my upgrades this winter will be more air moving capability through the radiator so that it doesn't heat up noticeably sitting still. John |
Burping
I just put it over my shoulder and pat it firmly on the manifold. Never thought of drilling holes in it but I will give it a try!
Rick |
In most everyday cars, the radiator filler neck is the highest part of the colling system, and air will naturally seek this place to escape and allow a full load of collant to be poured in.
Our little cars usually have the radiator below the the engine coolant outlet, so using the radiator filler neck to fill the system is not going to let you burp all the air out. On some cars, the expansion tank is located above the engine and filling the engine with coolant is easy. Without the expansion tank, the use of an "in-line" filler neck placed in the upper radiator hose at the highest point will allow the air to rise and escape, and allow a full load of coolant to be poured in. The hole drilled in the thermostat flange will let the air bypass the thermostat valve until the coolant reaches the temperature to open the thing. Air bubbles will rise to the top of the highest place in the cooling system, so make sure this is the place you install the filler neck, or you'll never get all the air out. I'm sure there will be others who will disagree, but this has worked for me time .... everytime. - Jim - |
Tony,
It looks like you've got the rpm performer intake just like I do. The way I got all the air out was to loosen the fitting for the water temp sender. To me, that's the highest point, and by doing so it seemed to get all the air out. I also did the hole in the thermostat too. David Edit: Just to clarify a little. The expansion tank is the highest point. But, between the temp sender location and thermostat, the temp sender location is higher. And will trap air. |
Tony,
I did the same thing as David 1) Take the temperature sender out of your intake until the fluid starts coming out, which should get rid of your air pockets. 2) Make sure your surge tank or some other cooling container is above your intake since the top of the radiator is usually lower than the intake manifold 3) Don't use anti-freeze unless you're worried about freezing in the winter. The engine will run much cooler with water, water wetter and a lubricant (no anti-freeze). 4) Add a 16" puller fan to suppliment the two pusher fans that were the original configuration. |
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