427w stroker kit- any objections?
 

I have a 1986 351w block stripped down. After searching the forum for hours i have come to the conclusion that i am going to buy a 427w stroker kit from coast high performance. I am not sure if the year of the motor makes any difference, and this oil problem i am hearing about makes me nervous.
Is there any thing i need to know before i buy this? Any objections?

Go for it. We've got a couple of them here in our club. Seriously strong motors.

Shrugod the questions you have to ask yourself %/ is do I have to conform to EPA regs. If you do I would use a pre "74" block. Also during the 80's alot of the manufacters were looking for ways to save money on production that ment using less material I cant atest that the "86" is one of these but I know the 70's blocks are not. Are they stronger or better? Dont know but I haven't had any problems out of the pre "74's. Of you want to bullet proof that go with the dart block ads 2600 to the build but if its going in your dream car what the heck. 4.125bore 4.000 stroke 6.200 rods JE forged pistons AFR 205 heads Victor Jr intake 825 Mity Demon .600 lift cam will net you around 575-600HP&over 550ft.lbs torque.This might help go to www.perfeng.cc see what you need. Good Luck on your build take your time do it right the first time.

thanx for the info. just found out that the block is .060 over already, so i am contemplating my next move. And i noticed one of the piston walls is sleeved. I dont know much about sleeves. any opinions anyone? should i junk the block?

351w to 427 stroker
 

before I ran out of money on my mustang, I was considering stroking my 351W. The shop that was going to do it, (eventually it just rebuilt the engine with ported alum. heads, Hedman long tubes mated to a new cross over (x junction) dual exhaust with new flowmasters, forged pistons and rods, new custom grind cam, holly double pumper carb, etc, at a 10:1 cr) advised me that 396 was as far as they would recommend stroking a 351W, with 408 definitley pushing the envelope, and anything beyond that being just too much for a small block to handle and not court trouble in the future. If you want a 427, then you should start with a 390 bb. I have no personal knowlege to back up what I am saying. Rather, I am simply passing on what I was told by pro builders. As for me, I am told that I should expect about 450 hp at the fly. That is plenty enough for a street ride.

JS

ShruGod
 

I got a 427w Cobra classic from Coast High Performance, The engine comes with 30 month/50k miles warranty, Great Engine.

The 80's 351w blocks have very thin webbing compared to the 69-74 blocks. The 69 block is your best choice because of its thick webbing and high nickel content. My next choice would be the 1970-1972. In 1973 they dropped the nickel % again. then in 75 the block castings changed. I have an 87 block sitting next to a 69 block and you can actualy see the difference in the two castings.

CHP - think twice, or even thirce!
 

Shru,

I am a CHP customer (bought a 351Windsor stroker) and my engine has less than 1,200 miles on it and it's in need of a total rebuild (blown headgasket, oil pressure issues, compression, you name it!). CHP has denied any responsibility and claims the warranty won't cover anything. They are blaming a faulty "tune-up", even after multiple master race mechanics have shot down that claim.

While i certainly expected to get burned by my cobra's sidepipes, the burns from CHP hurt MUCH MUCH more....i would look elsewhere.

dazebro- looking for a comment like that is why i posted in the first place. thanks for your input.

-I'M BAILIN'_

427 stroker
 

These stroker combinations do not work real well. We have had some sent in for repair. This is a 4.187 stroke with a 6.125 rod and makes for a terrible rod ratio. This is just to much stroke in a stock block. we do some 4.100 stoke cranks but us a 6.200 rod and these have worked out fine. We do a lot of the 4.000 stroke engines with a 4.030 or 4.040 bore for 408 to 410 cubic inches. If you do an aftermarket block and do a 4.125 bore with a 4.00 stroke this gives you 427C.I. but in a much nicer designed package. Thanks and good luck, Keith

just found out that shelby makes a 427 block with the 4.125 bore. its gonna hurt the ol' wallet, but its gonna be something i can trust. i plan on taking a good year to do this project anyway, so the price wont hurt too much.
the '86 windsor block is goin out the window

thanks everyone for your input.

Dazebro,

I am considering a CHP engine and I am curious about your experience. Did you buy a short block, a long block, or a turn-key? Just wondering how much of the assembly they did. Is your engine repairable, or are you out all of your money?

Thanks,

/Chris

I would think that combination would create a very negative rod ratio, if we look at the math for a 427w motor we would have a rod of 6.00 and a stroke of 4.170 so 6.00 divided by 4.170 nets you a rod ratio of 1.438. This is a very short ratio 1.8 is considerd optimal for all around power but a short ratio has alot of negatives.They are an increase in piston speed away from TDC which, at very high RPM, will out-run the flame front, causing a decrease in total cylinder pressure (Brake Mean Effective Pressure) at the end of the combustion cycle. Due to the reduced dwell time of the piston at TDC the piston will descend at a faster rate with a reduction in cylinder pressure and temperature as compared to a long-rod motor. This will reduce total combustion.
And finally the worst part much increased wear due to elevated piston speeds which for your 427w combo would be 40.5 ft per sec at 3500 rpm as compared to 347/302 combo would be 33ft per sec. Just for information the 460 has a 1.72 stroke ratio near ideal. For your 427w combo to be optimal you will need Large intake port volume vs. motor size, Single-plane or 360° intake manifolds
(Edelbrock Victor, Torker & Torker II, TM7. Holley Strip Dominator. Offenhauser Equa-Flow, Port-O-Sonic. Weiand X-Celerator, Team G), Large carburetor vs. engine size, Moderate engine speed
NO high RPMS, and a Tall axle ratio.