Replacing cam bearings 350sbc...
 

is there a way to replace cam bearings while the engine is still in the car with the front end of the car removed? im looking for a cheap way to replace my car and bearings at the same time without having to pull the engine. it seems i have a worn cam lobe but compression is near perfect...

I'd say you'd have to pull the tranny and pretty much take the front end of the car off.....I would just pull the engine out. It would be much easier....especially if you have to pull the tranny and take the top and front end of the motor off anyway to get the cam out.

Sir: I`m assuming that you wanna leave the crank+Rods/Pistons still in?, If that is so then you will be able to "Punch" the first 4 out and help them out of the crankcase - with the Pan off ofcourse.Putting new ones in will require someone underneth eyeballing when the cam bearing is centered in it`s bore.You`d be guessing though as to weather or not the oiling hole in each bearing is centered over the oil pressure feed in the block.Still you will need to remove the radiator, and by the time you do all this - your gonna tell yourself that you would have been better off removing the engine and doing things properly...Good luck..Mike

Just pull the motor.
Why do you think you need new cam bearings?
New cam and lifters, sure. But cam bearings require a special tool that you don't own.

well i figured it was almost a necessity to change cam bearings when replacing the cam. i've been told the engine wont last nearly as long...but correct me if im wrong. i know the lifters would be ok to use again.. they barely have 300 miles on them. i'd probably be looking at newer pushrods and valve springs/rockers in addition to the cam... am i right?

sagacious,

If you wiped a cam lobe a lot of foreign material has been passing through your oil system and i assure you your engin will come out sonner for rebuild if you don't do the job rigth the frist time

bonos

i might as well do things the right way... if i had the money. im 19... working construction and i make $9/hr... with insurance and high gas prices for my little gazz guzzler. so it's gonna take me a while to get this car where it needs to go. and right now it needs to go back on the road--without backfiring under acceleration. so im wondering...while i need a vehicle if it would be smart to replace the cam, pushrods, rocker arms and springs and i'll just reuse the newly installed lifters. the compression on the engine seems to be near perfect, and the engine never blows smoke under any condition. assuming the engine isnt planning to fall apart anytime soon, how long is it usually known for a older engine with a new cam replacement to last? i figure it's not worth my time pulling the engine if i dont have the time to rebuild it completely so i'll be leaving the engine in and replacing the cam by removing the front clip of the car and using the same old cam bearings. im hoping this will help me get by long enough until i have money saved for a new engine.

Why do you think it's the cam? Sounds like to me if it's backfiring under acceleration, it's a timing issue....either your distributor isn't advancing or the timing is off completely.

i think its the cam because the engine is 30 years old and valve float could be the potential problem. im pretty sure i've tried timing the engine everywhich way. everything in the dist works properly, it has been tested. i have the cam advanced 4 degrees like i said, and the dist wants to be fully advanced to work the best... and it acts as if it needs more, but there is none to give. so that leads me to believe that it isnt the timing...

It's a 30 year old engine and 30 year old cam, but you've put new lifters and pushrods in it lately?

Saga,

I'm having problems following your cause and cure.....

- You have lifters in the engine that have 300 miles on them.

- You think you have a wiped cam lobe.

- You think you're going to need new push rods, rockers and springs.

- You mention that the engine is 30 years old.

I'm assuming that the engine parts are all 30 years old, but with lifters that have been replaced 300 miles ago. Why was this done?

Checking the lift at each lifter with a dial indicator will tell you right away if you have wiped a lobe.

New lifters on an old cam, could be the start of a down hill fall to engine failure, and if you wiped a lobe, that metal is now part of the oil circulating around the bearing surfaces of the whole engine, and will slowly grind them away.

From where I'm sitting, you're throwing your money away by trying to fix an ailing engine by just putting in a new cam. And you never replace a cam without replacing the lifters. Given that the engine is 30 years old, has metal circulating around in it, and your limited budget is preventing you from "doing it the right way", my advice would be to spend your money on a good junk yard motor or a rebuilt one from a reliable source. At your young age, and with the limited experience you have with engines, this may be the most cost effictive way to get your ride back on the road.

you make a good point with the metal circulating around the engine, hehe :) that does make all my attempts pretty much useless. although i've never seen any signs of metal deposits in my oil, i use a magnet everytime. this makes me a little confused, but i suppose i could have overlooked at some point. when i replaced the lifters, i didnt have the means for checking the lift, nor was/am i savvy enough to think about checking it this way. im pretty much a self taught first timer. 2 years ago i didnt know the AC compressor from the starter, so i think im doing pretty well. the lifters were sticking and wouldnt shut up...it made the car run like **** (surges and flat spots) not to mention the backfiring that still occurs. basically the lifters were changed because i rely on my car and i had to do something...i mentioned the new pushrods, rockers and springs because if i WERE to install a new cam, that would be the safest way to ensure nothing else would fail instantly. meaning... it's about everything i can replace without pulling the motor, aside from a new pair of heads that would just blow out my bottom end like nothing. but like you said... if it is a worn cam lobe; there is metal moving around in the engine making my efforts futile. guess ill save my pennies for a 355sbc 385hp. anyone know where i can find the cheapest bare block rebuild? i dont need the heads, intake, carb, oil pan or any of the accessories. just a rebuilt hi perf block. something reasonable like a 9:5 with moly rings, and a compcams XE268 cam.

Saga,

We were all "self taught first timers" at some point in our lives. Well, there are some who still have never learned because they have the means to have someone else do the work :D

Building an engine is not black magic, but it does require a lot of skill and EXPERIENCE to do it right. I, like many, learned the hard way (read expensive way too) but managed to learn by my mistakes. From your latest post, you mention putting your old heads on a new short block....... bad move! No doubt the valve seats are going south, the valve guides could be going too, springs softened up...... and I know you can have this all rectified by having them rebuilt, but why not go with a new long block... that is a rebuilt engine, complete less intake and pan (and some even come with that too) Jasper has a performance engine department seperate from their grocery getter motors that is very reasonable.... I know 'cause I have one of their Cobra HO engines in my car.

Just adding some more food for thought..... good luck getting things sorted out.