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What is your experience with aluminum engine blocks?
I am going to replace my current 289 HI-PO with a 331 stroker. One option on the list uses an aluminum block. The car will see some occasional road course, auto cross, and drag strip action, but will be mostly street driven in a spirited manner (95%). I am wondering how viable an aluminum block will be for my relatively low performance needs (375-400HP) from a durability standpoint. My current PRO reasons are weight savings and overall car balance, and extra cooling ability the aluminum offers. One big CON is the high cost of admission for the alum block. So, is this worth it or should I stick with the iron block. The rest of the motor is Edelbrock Performer RPM Air-Gap intake, AFR 165-COMP heads, Aviad road race oil pan, headers, forged steel crank, H-Beam rods, and forged pistons when the size is determined. Thanks for any help and insight you can provide.
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At that power level, stock Ford blocks are primarily used. The weight difference is 60# in an 8.2" block. Not much. For the nearly $2k difference, you could get lightweight pistons with short lightweight pins, and internally balance your crank. Maybe add a lightweight flywheel (like the 18# Quartermaster clutch from Levy's). A lightweight crank could save 10#.
If you were going to use a Dart block anyway (around $2600 prepped I believe), you may want to spring for the extra $1200 for the aluminum. At that power level, are you using a hydraulic roller or a mild solid flat tappet cam? |
I've raced many things with both iron and alum blocks--If weight savings and car balance is primary--balance the lbs vs cost per pound against other areas that you can achieve weight reduction--smaller radiator/oil cooler/plumbing--brake system components--lighter exhaust system--suspension/steering system,etc. You can make the power level your looking for with a four cylinder so consider your needs/wants carefully---or DO IT ALL!!!!
Jerry |
I have a Ford RDI M-6010-F302 #810 Aluminum Siamese Block (New) that I am willing to sell for $3,895.00
Allan Heavy duty, light weight alternative to cast iron 356-T7 aluminum block with 4-bolt, steel billet main caps Iron sleeves, bore range 4.000”-4.155” Siamese cylinder bores, 5.200” long Finished main bearing bore for 2.248” journal diameter Uses common OD cam bearings, part number M-6261-J351/R351. Weighs approximately 100 lbs. |
"What is your experience with aluminum engine blocks? "
I've touched one before. :D |
The weight savings of smaller CI blocks is not as large as many would imagine. If a true copy of the iron block it would be even lighter but they do improve strength beyond the iron blocks. The Alum. blocks are built stronger and the extra mass offsets some of the savings. The big advantage IMO is the ability to repair if damaged in addition to the WOW factor, strength and so on.
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Just for the record, Flatlander lists 8.2" Dart aluminum Dart blocks for $3669.
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As part of complete weight loss program, an aluminum block is a key part, saving 60#. To really take advantage you would also use a lightweight crank (10-15#), lightweight rods, pins, and pistons (2-3#), small diameter damper (2-3#), lightweight clutch/flywheel (20-30#), and maybe some additional lightening machining. You can probably get close to 80-100# weight reduction, most of it off the front wheels.
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Alan,
Please tll me about the tires on your FIA. I want to go to racing tires on my FIA (ERA) and yours look like they work well (from our pictures). From the Goodyear dealer web sites it appears that there are at least 2 options for the Eagles that fit a Cobra. Thanks, Pat |
Pat,
I use the standard Goodyear "Cobra" tires from Roger Kraus http://www.rogerkrausracing.com/contact.html They are the rain tire with groves, I have 3000 miles on them almost all track time. They will be good for another 200 miles. I might try the Bluestreaks on the next round. Allan |
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