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Ford racing main girdle
I need to know the torque specs for the M-6340-A302 Ford racing main cap girdle, for both the nuts that fasten the main caps to the block, as well as the smaller ones that hold the girdle itself. Also should the studs be installed to the block with Loctite?
Did anyone else here install this part and by chance still has the instruction sheet? No idea why, but Ford Racing offers no e-mail support, and I want to avoid calling them from europe. Thanks, Simon |
The 302, with the 7/16" studs, the main cap bolt/stud torque is 70#. There only appears to be the studs for attaching the main caps??? If you want to use locktite, use it only on the threads going into the block. Be sure everything is free of oil and is clean. ALSO when it is applied (quite sparingly) immediately apply tension on the studs by installing the caps and tightening them to spec (even if it is only temporarily without the crank installed) for a few of hours until the locktite cures (depending on temprature). As a side note: if you have the block stripped and have threaded plugs (recommended) in the oil galleys drill the recommended .030 diameter hole in the plug directly behind the area where the distributor gear meshes with the cam, this will squirt oil on the gears and potentially save you a lot of trouble.
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Has anyone ever seen or heard of the actual bottom end of the block breaking. Not talking about rods or crank, but the block itself. I have to wonder about the need for a bottom end girdle.
Conversely, we all know that the SBF under rediculously high horsepower levels can split down the middle from the top down. Someone is now making Valley girdles to prevent this, but thus far they are only for small block Chevys. I saw it in either Summit or Jegs. |
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we replaced ours with splayed billet main caps:cool:
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I have seen late 302 with the webbing above the crank bearing journals cracked. I have seen 4 bolt splaye caps marketed for "302's" but from what I have seen there isn't enough material in the webs to support the outer bolts. ??????? Anyone?
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I have this very same girdle on my race motor, but do not use it on my street motor.......when talking to several well know engine builders about this, they all said pretty much the same thing.......
unless you are turning your motor more than 7,000 rpms, the girdle is not really needed.......one told me, "all it does is hold all the pieces together when the motor lets go". David |
Girdles
I have built a few motors and even had webbings break. Keeping the complete rotating assembly balanced (fly wheel,clutch and pressure plate too) is very important. Girdles are no more then frosting on a cake. 4 bolt or cross bolt the mains, 6800 rpm and above seems to be the point to do this. Also depends on what block you are using.
Bottom line---Balance and 4 bolt mains. |
exrta thick
I was looking at an aftermarket block next goaround they have more meat in the bottem end..il take mine medium rare:JEKYLHYDE
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its cheap insurance!
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My builder installed the TrickFlow girdle when he put my stroker together... the installation instructions are below - can't say whether the torque specs would be the same for a Ford girdle.
We never really discussed the benefits of installing one, and he also filled the bottom of the block's water passages with some type of iron/epoxy mix. I think he was concerned that the 347 stroker needed as much added strength as possible to keep from busting apart. http://static.summitracing.com/globa...s-51500700.pdf - Dan |
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