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NEW engine tapping noise!!!help
backdraft #397
my 351 w with 500 miles on it just started making a taping noise under the valve cover i checked the rockers and they seem ok. it gets alot louder under load or when reving the engine. could this be a seized lifter?? is it worth it to remove the manifold and check the lifters? after replacing lifters ,are initial valve adjustments done the same as a chevy motor or should i just tighten them with the engine running till the get quiet? thanks for the help |
Sure it's not an exhaust leak? Also saw this once with a set of ignition wires that had a cut in them and were arcing to the valve cover.
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Don't remove the manifold. And I wouldn't recomend adjusting the rockers while the engine is running. You didn't say wether you have hyd. or solid lifters, each have a slightly different way of adjusting them. Each have to be adjusted with the piston at tdc and the valve closed. If you have a Ford manual, it will tell you a sequence for adjustment for doing 3 or 4 cylinders at a time by turning the engine over a little at a time. With the valve closed, then and only then you can tell by hand if you have any loose rockers. Solid lifters you have to use a feeler gauge, and hyd. lifters you tighten untill contact and then give them another 3/4 turn.
Hope this helps... Tim |
Under load tapping? Sounds suspiciously like a piston pin or rod bearing.Check the valves first like Tim says. With the motor running take a short wooden broom handle ,stick one end in your ear and the other end use like stethoscope and see if you can hear where the noise really is.
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its terminal,,connecting rod or wrist pin,,
anyone have experience with jasper engines warrantys? i have a 3 year 75,000 mile warranty. would they pay the repair bill or do i have to send the engine to them, or do i just let the dealer i bought it from take care of all that?? thanks |
not good
Quote:
its terminal,,connecting rod or wrist pin,, anyone have experience with jasper engines warrantys? i have a 3 year 75,000 mile warranty. would they pay the repair bill or do i have to send the engine to them, or do i just let the dealer i bought it from take care of all that?? thanks |
With 500 miles, take it to the dealer and let them figure it out and fix it.
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http://www.backdraftboys.com/forum/u...9_c%200091.jpg
is this bad enough to cause a severe rapping noise? |
probably..............:( :( :(
David |
Wow - that's pretty bad. That happened in 500 miles???
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would 20w50 oil be to heavy to be starting it when its 40 degrees in the morning?
there was alot of purple color in the oil "assembly lube"maybe? also a very very small trace of silicone gasket seal in the oil pan. im going to replace all the rod bearings and try it again,, thankfully the oil pan can be removed easily on this car, |
OOOw! Something didn't get bored correctly! Before you just replace the bearings I would recomend that at least that rod be checked and cross-checked with a micrometer for roundness. And NO the 20w50 oil did not cause that. Before I went to synthetic I always ran 20w50 with zero problems even below freezing. A lighter weight may help your starting and so forth but that's about it untill you're well under your 40 deg. BTW, you mentioned stuff in the pan; is the oil pick-up clean?
Good luck, Steve |
I would highly recomend exercising the warrenty, before going further. All the metal that came off that bearing is inside that engine somewhere. Not to mention clearances may not have been right when final assembled. An oil passage may have been blocked, which would garantee a repeat. The more you mess with it the more you own it and the less the builder will own up to.
The bearing itself was not the cause of this failure. Replacing the bearing does not fix the root cause. No way the 20 -50 oil was the cause. Short of very high rpm, normal operation in 500 miles could not have caused this. The only thing left is something was not right before it was ever started. That something is still not right. |
With that amount of wear across the width of the bearing it looks like a tolerance problem.
I agree with olddog, the more you mess with it, the more you own the problem. Someone should measure the rod journals, and make sure the bearing is the right size thickness for it. If it is within spec, then some crud got in there some how and it will likely not go away by itself. |
Jasper is taking care of the rebuild for me ,,,in the mean time i ordered another engine to get me on the road next week,,
in a couple weeks i will have an extra engine for my garage |
Too bad the motor shot snake eyes, but it is worth noting Jasper stepped up to the plate and followed through from their end.
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As an insurance make sure that Jasper "primes" the whole oiling system.I run an oil cooler which I hook up to the engine and remove the distributor ,insert a primer tool and pump the oil thoroughly through the whole engine.A lot of times damage like that is done in the first few minutes before the motor even fires for the first time. The oil beter be everywhere before it fires. 20W50 oil is perfectly Ok .To explain simply ,it is as thick as a 20w oil,but with the additives it works like a 50w oil.Good Luck
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