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Oil Temp
Since I plan on installing an oil cooler, I've read thru the various threads on oil thermostats and oil cooler issues. Most of the oil thermostats open at 180 degrees, however, the Canton unit opens at 215 degrees.
The confusion for me comes in when I read a couple of other threads that indicated that bearing temps run about 70 degrees higher than oil temp and that excess bearing wear starts to be a problem above 250 degrees. Given the above, bearing temps if the Canton unit is used would be about 285 degrees. This would be well above the point where bearing wear is increased. For normal street driving, is this going to be a major issue? |
You really need your oil temp to be in the 215-230 range so any condensation or moisture can be evaporated. That would be why the Canton bypass valve doesn't open until you reach operating temperature. Plus your engine needs to be in the correct temp range (water and oil) to function properly.
Clois |
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Oil temperature
I have a 5.0 stroked and bored to 354. No oil cooler. My water is 195 to 205 most of the time. The oil is 160 to 185 max. I do have a 7 qt oil pan and a remote oil filter. I would like to get my temp up 20 to 30 degrees. I have noticed when my oil temp goes up, I'm a qt low on oil.
I have a buddy with a 302, oil cooler, remote and his oil temp never gets above 160. Coach has a 461 KC and I think his oil temp is 200 or so. Dwight |
I've got a 350 hp 351-W in my 65 Fastback, running an 8 quart Canton Road race pan (I use to open track the car a little).....
Normal street driving including sustained interstate speeds of 75 or so mph, my oil NEVER gets above 185 degrees, I have no oil cooler on the car......while open tracking the car with sustained rpms from 3500 to 6000, the oil temp would get up to around 240 max, 90% of the time is was in the 220 degrees range........on the cool down lap my oil temp would drop around 20 degrees... As Rob said,for street use, you do not need an oil cooler and you can get by without one for the occasional track days.......for the track I would go with a good synthetic oil also.......... David |
Thanks for the information. For the time being I can certainly plumb in the oil cooler and lines and not connect them into the system since I do like the looks better with the oil cooler installed.
If I do need to connect the oil cooler into the system later on, are there any upgrades that can help boost the oil pressure on the 351W? |
Oil
If your pressure is 50 to 60 cold and 30 or more hot, you good. Rule of thumb is 10 lb for every 1000 rpm. If the motor is old and loose you can install a high pressure/ high volume oil pump. But a good high volume is all you need on a new motor. Melling makes a good one that sells for $50. Be sure to match your pick up to the oil pan.
Dwight |
Quote:
I'm running 15/40 wt. non synthetic oil, on a cold start up my oil pressure is 60 psi.... once my oil temp gets to around 160 or more,my idle oil pressure is 30 to 35 psi, at any rpm over 1800, my oil pressure is normally 55 psi.....................this is with a standard replacement oil pump, not a high pressure or high volume pump.......these numbers are perfect as far as I'm concerned...... On my race motor, my oil pressure is the same as above, on that motor I have a HP adjustable oil pump, it is still set at the factory setting, it is also not a high pressure or high volume pump... I don't think you need a high pressure pump and I don't like high volume pumps for small block street motors, you don't need that extra volume and it puts extra strain on the cam/distributor gear.... David |
I've used the 220 mark for oil temps. You can internet the breakdown rate relative to vescosity and temp to see the advantage of keeping a lower than 250 temp.
IMHO :D |
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Keep in mind adding a high volume oil pump reguires a high volume oil pan and high volume pick up, heavy duty oil pump drive shaft as well. It puts extra strain on you distributer especially when running cold 20/50 oil. I would say only upgrade what you need to, to achieve ideal specs as stated earlier. Just a thought on oil temps at 212 plus to burn off condensation...wouldn't the temps inside the engine heat the oil well above that without having to reach those temps in the oil pan (which is where my oil temp sensor is located) thus burning off condensation? Good luck.
John |
You've all been a great help. I'm going to have to rethink some of the things I had planned on doing but its better to make modifications to the plan now rather than after I've ruined the engine.
Thanks again everyone. |
ill bet it really strains the shaft and gear with straight 50 in ther i use a forged gear on our msd dist. because of the problems with the smallblock of corse so far the car is only track driven once we go to the street it will get a dual vis oil. when i talked to Dean L. he said he didnt run a cooler when he tracked his car and that releived me somewhat that we were over doing it on the track ,i think were going to stay without one till the temps start going to high..WB
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I run a high volume pump, ARP oil pump shaft and 5-30 Motorsports synthetic blend oil. Pressure is 65 cold idle and 35 hot. I've used this pump and shaft in the last two motors, over 19,700 miles and no problems.
Dwight |
I think they have hit the nail; drive the car and see if you need one first. I drive my cars pretty regularly, and in Dallas summers with stop and go (like there is anything else :rolleyes: ) I found my oil temps creeping up a little higher than I would like so I do use a cooler all the time, with an inline Modine tstat. I use Valvoline 30W Racing oil year round now.
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