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Best clutch for SB?
I figure my 331/347 stroker will be in the 400-425 hp range. As clutches are spec'd for horsepower range, which is the best clutch to use for this horsepower range without ending up with overdeveloped muscles in my left leg? That is, which clutch will provide "normal" pedal pressure?
What I've heard: Ram and McCleod (sp?) have heavy pedal pressure. Centerforce II clutches advertise "normal" pedal pressure, but I haven't had the opportunity to try one. What say you? Which clutch did you use and do you like it? DD |
Doug are you useing a hyd. setup or a mechanical setup? jimig@standardtransmission.com
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Hydraulic.
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Well I've used two setups that I've liked.
One was a Hays street/strip setup with a Borg & Beck style pressure plate....about 2800lbs. It was fine with a 3/4" master cylinder. The other was a Shieffer long style pressure plate, again about 3000 lbs. I liked them both. Not hard to push but gripped really well. |
My continued use of Centerforce
I have a FMS 351W with approx. 425 HP after a little tuning. I had researched RAM and others in my planning to replace my 3550 with a new TKO600. I had just convinced myself not to use a Centerforce PP due to the weights. But I knew I liked my easy clutch pedal. To my surprise after unbolting the existing transmission and bellhousing, I found a FMS PP mafe by Centerforce. I located a new 26 spline CF disk and reused the existing PP.
I did compare the two different performance level RAM pressure plates with my CF PP. I discovered that most PPs are made by one company, I forget the name but that each clutch manufacture differentiates their offering by the design and production of different disks. The PP fingers on my CF were angled shaped versus completely flat that I saw on others. Thinking this design was stronger but more becuase I had expereince with the CF setup, I stayed with CF. |
cobra 29; what is it about the weights on the centerforce that you dont like. you are talking about the centrifical weights on the pressure plate.
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Carmine,
Yes I am referring to the centrifical weights on the pressure plate fingers but as I meant to communicate my expereince was good with a centrifical assist CF pressure plate. In preparing for my transmission change, I did read about several expereinces where these weights were alleged to have caused problems. These expereinces were counter to my experiences before and after my transmission and clutch disk change using the same CF centrifical assist pressure plate. |
what kind of problems
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No CF PP Problems for me
Most of what I read had to do with shifting difficulties or that the CF PP re-positioned the TO bearing thus making the clutch pedal feel different. Remember this is what some others have reported. My expereince was good and has been good after my transmission swap.
See September 16, 2005 on http://www.chuckbrandt.com/living.htm |
My car puts 450/450 to the ground. I run it on the road course pretty regularly, and on the street. Went to the drag strip once this year.
I'm using a Centerforce II kit: disc, PP, bearing. Also using an alum flywheel from Fidenza. The Pressure plate was made by Vileao (or something like that). I remember seeing the stamp on the casing. Performance is excellent. Doesn't wear out my leg in traffic and city driving. No problems on the strip or road course. I installed it last winter with the new engine. Still feels good. Clutches and other drive line parts have a HP rating. But that should only be used as a guide. The company figures out how much power the part can handle in the average car - which weighs 1/2 more than a Cobra. And there's a fudge facter in there, too. So if you're making 400hp, and the clutch is rated at 450, it will last just about forever. |
I agree with Bob on the CF clutches. I think some people may have used the wrong throwout bearing and damaged the weights.
I have gone thru a Ford Cobra clutch and a CF dual friction doing open track exclusively with 600+ FWHP. I contacted CF and they reccomended a clutch that was HP rated and this clutch is working just fine. I have the clutch out right now and it is in perfect condition. The flywheel shows no signs of slippage. The part # is DF 920830 but I am using a tremec 3550 and it is a 10 spline disc so you may have to get a different disc. with your trans. Give CF a call and they will tell you which clutch you need based on HP. Those Long and B&B clutches are old school Ford/ Chrysler clutches. RD |
Rog,
What flywheel are you using? I have a 157 tooth McLeod steel laying around for the Cleveland - I wonder if that's a good unit for me to use? Will that fit the type of clutch you're using, which is exactly what I was looking at? |
This is good info. I was leaning toward Centerforce, but wanted to check and see what everyone else was running. Pedal pressure and drivability is important to me. Who wants an overdeveloped left leg?
DD |
Doug, just an FYI, ERA generally installs McLeod clutches in their turnkey cars. I know a McLeod billet steel flywheel was being delivered for mine either today or tomorrow. Headers are on the motor and getting ready for the install.
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I'm using a Centerforce billet flywheel, disc and pressure plate. I've had it over 7200 RPM without any issues, and it shifted fine. For a steel flywheel, I prefer the Centerforce unit, they don't use a cast in or bolted on imbalance weight. Instead, they drill a series of balance holes to lighten one side. This tends to spread the imbalance over a larger area instead of concentrating the imbalance in one area. Makes for a smoother engine, IMO.
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