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Solid lifter valve lash adjustment help.
I looking for a sequence to adjust the valve lash with solid lifters on a 1969 Ford 302. If you start with #1 cylinder at top dead center, what other cylinders will be on the back side of the cam lobe? Then you rotate the crank 90 (or 180?) degrees and you can adjust another 2 cylinders, rotate another 90 degrees and adjust another 2 cylinders, etc., etc.
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Follow the firing order (any motor)...look at the distributor cap, whichever one is at TDC, the one before is heading for the exhaust stroke (so lash the intake valve), the one in front is heading away from the intake stroke (so lash the exhaust valve).
FWIW, I've repeatedly found this gives a lash that is too loose on those "before and after" cylinders, so I just roll it over two cycles and do the cylinders in order, checking the lash on the before and after cylinders along the way. |
Actually you can adjust 8 valves and then turn 360 and adjust the other 8
I always just work one cylinder at a time, turn 90 degrees do the next, 90 degrees next---have to turn the engine over 2 complete rev to do that but have never made a mistake on what was open and what was closed If you only do one engine type/firing order the 8 yalves at a time works but try it on different types or firing orders or cylinder numbering-----can be disasterous |
Kiss
I have used the absolute simplest, fool-proof method, for the last 30+ years. This is it:
1. Rotate the engine with a bump switch until the EXHAUST rocker goes down to open the exhaust valve. Set the INTAKE lash now on that cylinder. 2. Rotate the engine until the INTAKE rocker comes up to close from its full lift position. Set the EXHAUST lash now on that cylinder. 3. Repeat for the remaining seven cylinders following your firing order. |
I pull the distributor cap and follow the rotor bug, adjusting the both intake and exhaust for the cylinder currently ready to fire.
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When setting lash, just do it the old-school way and like most every savvy engine builder. This way, you know when your lifter is on the base circle and eliminates the guess work.
The diagram below is from the Crane website and explains the process as it should be done: Setting Valve Lash on Mechanical Cams All the valves must be set individually and only when the lifter is properly located on the base circle of the lobe. At this position the valve is closed and there is no lift taking place. How will you know when the valve you are adjusting is in the proper position with the lifter on the base circle of the cam? This can be accomplished by watching the movement of the valves. 1. When the engine is hot (at operating temperature) remove the valve covers and pick the cylinder that you are going to adjust. 2. Hand turn the engine in its normal direction of rotation while watching the exhaust valve on that particular cylinder. When the exhaust valve begins to open, stop and adjust that cylinder's intake valve. (Why? Because when the exhaust is just beginning to open, the intake lifter will be on the base circle of the lobe, so the intake is the one we can now adjust.) 3. Use a feeler gauge, set to the correct valve lash, and place it between the tip of the valve stem and rocker arm. Adjust until you arrive at the proper setting and lock the adjuster in place. 4. After the intake valve has been adjusted, continue to rotate the engine, watching that same intake valve. The intake valve will go to full lift and then begin to close. When the intake is almost closed, stop and adjust the exhaust valve on that particular cylinder. (Again, when we see the intake valve almost closed, we are sure that the exhaust lifter is on the base circle of the lobe.) Use the feeler gauge and follow the procedure described before in step 3. 5. Both valves on this cylinder are now adjusted, so move to your next cylinder and follow the same procedure again. In the future you may find shortcuts to this method, but it still remains the best way to do the job correctly. |
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Agreed patrickt, I also adjust when cold (except I follow the money, er, the rotor bug). :D
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patrickt,
Agreed, but for the novice it is better to spell out the process. Good point on checking your own hot lash, wait till cold, then take note of cold lash. Every engine has its own expansion rate, and as you say, alloys make a big difference. With my iron block and giant alloy heads, my expansion was much less than I first thought it would be, so it's always good to do this exercise yourself and not assume when setting cold. Unless you enjoy setting the lash hot, then by all means, that is the absolute best way. John ;) |
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Valve Lash
I don't want to steal this thread but I would like to know how to wire a "Bump Switch"??
I always have to have someone help me turn the engine over with the starter, it just doesn't turn by hand unless I remove all the plugs. The cam company spec. give you a arrange for ajustment(.020 to.025) but as some else said if you have an iron block and aluminum heads like I do, you will want things a little tighter(.012 to .015). I always try to do one bank at a time adjusting the valve as the other one become active. I have done it hot with the engine running but not in the cobra. It takes a week to clean up after that type of adjustment. Sometimes that is the only way to get your hands warm up here in the Northeast. Snow again today:LOL: |
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Easiest way is to get a remote starter test switch at the parts house (or make one), with alligator clips that hook up to the solenoid on the firewall (or the starter) so that you can send B+ to energize the solenoid and bump the starter. Caution, though, make sure you're in neutral (yeah, I know, obvious, but...).
Another idea you may want to try is to put the car in 4th and roll it forward or backward as needed to bump the motor over. Another way is to get a breakover bar, proper socket and extension, and use the big damper bolt on the nose of the crankshaft to roll it over, usually works pretty well. Ahhhh! Patrick beat me to it! :-) |
Here's a pretty fancy one ($10 off of Amazon.com)
http://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP7853-.../dp/B0009XQUKW http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA280_.jpg |
I use a:
1. Screwdriver to short across the S terminal and the main battery terminal of the solenoid. Sometimes this results in a 'melt down' of the screw driver tip, thus rendering an excellent 'punch' you always needed anyway... 2. Sometimes I use an open end wrench, China wrenches work best, because, well there is that 'melt down' problem. 3. Won't work with one screw driver? Try two (cool fire works). 4. Needle nose pliers might do the trick, again, use a Chinese pair. 5. Strip a piece of wire and use that (uh, watch out you don't burn your hand if it melts down). 6. Paper clip might work! Or just cut a piece of wire from under the hood, you don't really need all of them anyway. Just choose wisely... Red Neck Ernie |
Don't hold the paper clip in your fingers doing the jumping across the terminals or you'll get a line melted into your fingertips...and utter words you and your dog never heard before...
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Of course if everything goes 'just right' there is no problem, the current (amps) are very small, it's when you 'slip' that things get interesting. Heck, a couple of times I even jumped across from the main battery terminal to the main starter terminal because the solenoid was bad. Now I gaurentee that will result in fire works, but it will turn the motor over as well (use a BIG jumper).
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