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baby refuses to burp
After putting the intake back on, I pulled the temp sensor out of the back of the manifold, and jacked the front wheels about 8 inches off the ground. I filled it until the open port was full, and installed the sensor. Then I pulled the plug up by the thermostat housing and continued to fill unto that port was full. I replaced the plug and topped it off. It set over night, and I topped it off again. Then I took it for an easy drive. The next morning I topped it off again. I repeated the easy drive and the level stayed full.
Now, I filled it with the same coolant I drained out, as it is new. However I stll have a little over a pint of coolent left that was in it before. I took it for a hard run and it never got over 180. I let it idle with the fan off until it got up to 200 and shut it down. I could hear water boiling back in the engine and it puked into the over flow. It never did that before and I have shut it down at 205 before. I turned the fan on and started it, letting it cool down to 180. It is still full when I pulled the cap. There has to be an air pocket in the heads, but darned if I know how to get it out. Help. |
Things that make you go,,, Hmmmm.
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Since it boiled in the engine at only 200, I have to suspect the air pocket is in the engine allowing that spot to get hot. My dad has a bank beside his house that I would guess is 20 degrees (drops 8 feet in 24 feet). I'm thinking of backing over the bank and pulling the cap. Should that do the trick? |
Do you have a vent hole in your thermostat? If so, the hill should do a good job.
The other alternative is to just let the recovery tank do its job. Properly plumbed, it will eventually capture the bubble (possibly a bit at a time) and replace it with coolant. |
Burper
Moroso makes a neat little valve that looks alot like a temp sensor you just press the button on top and it bleeds the air out it works really well ..and its cheap 11 bucks . Install in the intake as high as possible or thermostat housing . WD
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http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...rp_fitting.jpg |
Are you sure the thermostat is correctly installed?.
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Air lock in Heater if fitted?
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My experience is the same as Barnsnake. A recovery tank or bottle with the fitting on the bottom hooked up to your surge tank will eventually get the bubble out. Mine gurgled after shutdown for about two weeks (weekend only driving). Then it caught the bubble and now all is quiet. Just keep topping it off until you can't add any more. Make sure there is some distilled water first in the recovery tank so it makes a good siphon back to the surge tank.
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...overy_Tank.jpg |
I did drill a hole in the T-stat. Set the T-stat with hole at the top 12 'oclock. I am sure the T-stat is in correctly.
Since I pulled the pluggs on the intake as I filled it, I doubt the vent would help, but maybe it would. Sure would be easier than than pulling a plug, so I will look for one. Getting a bubble in the radiator bothers me as, I don't think there is any provision to vent it. I'll have to look it over. I guess I'll give the back it over the bank trick a try. Yes, I do have a front sump on the oil pan and thanks for reminding me. I'll watch the oil pressure real close. I may just shut it off, let it sit for a while with the cap off, and then let it roll to the bottom before starting it. |
Well that seemed to do the trick. I didn't have it hot enough to open the T-stat, and it must have take 45 minutes to bleed through that little hole I drilled.
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what about the heater hoses, i usually have a "T" with a cap in the upper heater hose , in addtion to the 1/8" vent hole in the Thermo.
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