|
hydraulic clutch non engagement
have a 65 4 speed toploader with ram finger clutch and pull type slave will not disengage . I have a wilwood slave and a tilton master.
|
What diameter is your master cylinder?
|
What side is the pivot, or which direction does the slave pull to?
|
master was 7/10 bore' now 7/8 bore as per wilwood, pivot on driver side left. I'm out of ideas
|
If that's a long throw clutch, you'll need considerable travel to get full disengagement. I'm running a long throw Ram and it took me a while to get it right. I run a Wilwood 3/4" master and a 7/8" push type slave. I upgraded to the large capacity master and it gave me a bit of extra travel over the small one. Clutches are a pain in the arse.
|
thanks guys. Just hate to toss parts at something without doing homework.Looks like another upsize. And yes it is a long throw ram.
|
If you know how far the clutch fork must travel to disengage the clutch, and you know how far the master cylinder rod moves when you depress the clutch, you can calculate what size master cylinder and slave cylinder you need. The basic relationship is that the slave cylinder rod travel times the square of the slave cylinder diameter equals the master cylinder rod travel times the square of the master cylinder diameter. For example, for every inch a 7/8" diameter master cylinder rod travels, a 3/4" slave cylinder rod will travel 1.36" So, if your clutch pedal moves the master cylinder rod 2" at full travel, the slave cylinder will move the clutch fork almost 2 3/4".
|
Here's a little chart showing the inches of slave cylinder rod movement for every inch of master cylinder rod movement for some common size cylinders. Master cylinder sizes are shown across the first row and slave clyinder sizes are down the first column. Where the rows and columns meet is the slave cylidner rod travel per inch of master cylinder rod travel.
Sv/M> 0.625 0.750 0.875 1.000 0.625 1.000 1.440 1.960 2.560 0.750 0.694 1.000 1.361 1.778 0.875 0.510 0.735 1.000 1.306 1.000 0.391 0.563 0.766 1.000 |
Pedal pressure
Part of the problem is coming up with a master / slave combination that not only works mechanically, but is half way comfortable to use. When I upped my 3/4" master to a 1", it became unusable. Clutch worked great, but it took all I had to depress the pedal. I had to drop back to a 3/4" master with a little bit longer throw. I think the smaller the master is in relationship to the slave, the easier the pedal is to push. As you increase the master (slave remaining the same), it gets commensurately harder to push (to the point of requiring steriods).
|
Quote:
On a different note,... make sure the geometry on the clutch fork, and pivot bracket, allows for the maximum throw at the TO bearing. I had to add washers under the pivot bracket to accomplish this. |
Just remembered,had to cut the fork to fit inside the frame rails. Almost a 3/4 inch. The kit was supposed to be a new build, but 2 65 mustang parts cars made this build a little more complicated than antcipated. I love the feedback. I have tried most of what you all have recommended. Stumped I am. Sounds like I need you all in my garageto get this up and running. I've been thinking, more volume ie large lines or more pressure. Thanks for everything
|
I'm seeing something pretty good . I'm A Georgia Bulldog younger brother a Tide and sisters are Wolverines. Sounds like home.
|
Small, I remember tossing the fork setup for the reason you mentioned (cut the fork). If I had it to do over, I would simply move the bellhousing fork hole 'up' enought to clear the frame. A few cut-off wheels plus a little welding and your done.
|
Quote:
|
thought I could get this done Another master leaks. Thanks everyone for your replies. Time to regroup . This has been the longest stump I've every run into. Starting to beleive can't teach this old man new tricks.
|
| All times are GMT -7. The time now is 07:29 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
The representations expressed are the representations and opinions of the clubcobra.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Shelby American, any other replica manufacturer, Ford Motor Company. This website has been planned and developed by clubcobra.com and its forum members and should not be construed as being endorsed by Ford Motor Company, or Shelby American or any other manufacturer unless expressly noted by that entity. "Cobra" and the Cobra logo are registered trademarks for Ford Motor Co., Inc. clubcobra.com forum members agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s). Thank you for visiting clubcobra.com. For full policy documentation refer to the following link: