|
M-6010-N351 w/ Hydraulic Roller Cams
I purchased a M-6010-N351 block from ford racing and was planning on putting in a hydraulic roller cam. The block does not have penetrations in the lifter valley to attach the lifter guide plate. Is the guide plate needed, or do I have to machine additional holes in the block to attach the lifter guide plate?
|
To use the OEM style roller lifters you have to machine the block. I think it is a pretty simple thing that most any shop can do. I don't think is is too costly.
|
use the spider as a template and use 1/4-20 bolts - no biggie.
Double check dog-bone/fork alignment for each pair of lifters. you may have to do some minor clearance work. --again no biggie. |
Or, you could use a link bar lifter. If the engine is already assembled, you probably don't want to be drilling and grinding on it. A lot more expensive, though.
|
Quote:
I just use the link-bar lifters,too easy, did it on my last 2 motors.........(even a cave man can do it):LOL::LOL:;);) David |
Which do you suggest?
I see the Ford Racing M-6500-S58 and the COMP Cams 8931-16. Which do you suggest, or is there another you prefer?
|
Edit...I thought you were showing the lifter spider.
I wouldn't spend $400-500 on lifters guys. You can get the OEM lifters for $120 + $40 for the spider. It literally takes 30 minutes to drill/tap the bolts for the spider. BTW, don't drill a thru hole....you'll be drilling into a cam bearing/cam bearing journal. |
i would go stock as well. -- the bumps for the spider should be there in the N351--
|
Hi,
I stock link bar lifters from Comp Cams & Ford. |
Hi,
The Comp Cams 8931-16 roller conversion kit I want to sell for $450.00. Summit has them @ $529.95 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-8931-16/ |
I am trying making the spider work
I was surprised, but the B50 & B58 blocks (Amateur Competition) do have provisions for the spider, but the M&N351 (Professional Competition) do not (go figure). I didn't realize it until the short block was assembled. We had to grind down some raised lettering in the lifter valley and hand drill holes to accept the screws for the spider. The holes still aren't tapped since our tap & dye kit tapers down, so at the current depth of the hole the tool bottoms out in the hole before it removes material for the threads. I am a bit scared to just drill deeper because I don't want to end up making a through hole in the block. I am considering grinding down the tapered end of the tap & dye so it is more square and will remove material for the threads sooner.
|
spend $10 and get a bottom tap. You'll get much better results, and won't ruin your standard tap.
|
| All times are GMT -7. The time now is 11:59 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
The representations expressed are the representations and opinions of the clubcobra.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Shelby American, any other replica manufacturer, Ford Motor Company. This website has been planned and developed by clubcobra.com and its forum members and should not be construed as being endorsed by Ford Motor Company, or Shelby American or any other manufacturer unless expressly noted by that entity. "Cobra" and the Cobra logo are registered trademarks for Ford Motor Co., Inc. clubcobra.com forum members agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s). Thank you for visiting clubcobra.com. For full policy documentation refer to the following link: