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Getting wheels off, whew!
I had to take all my wheels off the other day for the first time ever. Man, what a pain that was! Here's what I had to do to get the most stubborn wheel off (after trying everything else first).
Stuff required (that isn't water, that's sweat). By the way, that was a brand new lead hammer before I started. Use propane -- it's cooler, NOT mapp or propylene -- too hot: http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/P1000675.jpg I put penetrating oil in and let set for an hour or so, then put in ice where indicated and heated spinner carefully with a propane torch, then put in ice again. Smacked spinner on each ear evenly with a lead hammer (make SURE you're hitting in the right direction to loosen). Finally, after much sweat from swinging hammer it broke loose and off came the spinner and wheel, success. http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...00676-Edit.jpg Lesson learned here is to make sure to put anti-seize oil on wheel before putting back on so it will be easier next time. |
put never seize on the drive pins and inner hub also to aid in getting the wheel off after you get the spinner off.
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Hello Sandy,
We have a tool that has been developed here from the BACC group. Here is a pic, You insert the front end into the hub, slide the ears of the knock off into the slots, support the back end and tap with a mallet/sledge hammer on the horizontal wings on the back end......works every time. http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/data/500/1210.JPG You can contact Alan A. here in CC to get one. Tony R. |
Spinner removal tool
Tony:
Wouldn't that tool damage the spinners? It appears to be made of steel and I would guess it would gouge the spinners as the outer handle was tapped. |
Yo Street Rod,
It does leave a tiny indent on the aluminum spinners that is barely noticeable and on Stainless Steel none at all, the force is spread across the base of all three ears. The option is easy on /off, firm and consistent tightening or what Sandy has gone through. The lead hammer approach also has the downside of possible body damage, especially on the rears. There have been Cobra buddies that have broken an ear off and it has been no problem when they drove into my garage. I happened to have some extra spinners sitting around that I lent out until they could get a new set. I've used it on both Aluminum and SS spinners and never gave it another thought, it worked on my SPF, Shelby, GT40 and the Daytona. TR |
Most owners make the spinners far too tight when putting them back on. They are like oil filters and get tighter with age.
Bob |
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Using other tools, including plastic or rubber mallets or spinner wrenches, can overtighten and damage spinners, wheels and hubs... but never a properly wielded lead mallet. And anti-seize is never optional. |
I have mine off 3 or 4 times a year, so it's never a problem getting them off.
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All good information,
I found that with the spinner tool and a two pound sledge that the leverage of the extended wings always got them tight. I used the safety wire as a visual check to see if they were loosening every time I got into the car the first time any day I drove it, the safety wire needs to be slightly slack so you can see if it has tiightened in the direction of loosening, if is slack the spinners are tight. Using the lead hammer always left me wondering if it really tight enough especially with the angle you had to swing it and the wear and tear on the hammer head after numerous uses. One mans opinion after 16 years, 4 roadsters, GT40 and a Daytona, never lost a wheel or not able to get them off when I wanted to and never had one come loose. TR |
Sandy,
How long had the wheels been on the car before you removed them? From what I recall reading from another thread, the recommendation was to remove the wheels every year. I think I waited about 18 months, but luckily I didn't run into any problems. I bought one of the tools that Tony mentioned. It works well, but does start to leave some marks on the knock off. No biggie...have you ever looked at the knock-offs on a vintage Cobra? I stopped using the tool. I found that it seems easier to use the lead hammer alone. |
I second that one
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Take them off with a lead hammer, and put them on with a dead blow mallet. Beat on them to much and you won't get them off. Plenty of anti-seize and SAFETY wire them. I had a shop that rebalanced and put all my wheels back on ( a well known shop for Cobras) and they were over tightened. I broke one getting them off!!!!!!!!!!:mad:
Scott |
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A lead hammer will keep indenting more deeply to absorb the force. Unless you go completely insane, it's impossible to overtighten a spinner with a solid lead hammer. Never use anything but a lead hammer on spinners and knockoffs. |
Good Luck! Use a lead hammer and beat them on!
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Mine were on for a couple years while stored out of state. They were a little tough to get off but nothing serious. Use Anti-Seize Lube!!!
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It had been 15 months since the wheels were put on the car new. All the spinners came off relatively easily except the left rear -- and man 'o man for some reason that one was a bear to get off.
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My general rule of thumb is a good smear of "Spinner Eaze" from Cobra Valley,
http://performanceunlimited.com/cobr...innereaze.html hammer them firmly (not HARD, just firm) until they get tight, and then give it one final good whack. Safety wire and they will come off with just a couple firm whacks on opposing ears (never beat just one ear to death...spread the blows across all of them, angle permitting). Use a piece of 2x4 against the ears to impart more hammering leverage (if necessary). The Spinner Eaze doesn't gum up as much as the typical gray Permatex anti-seize. Just put a drop on your finger and spread it over each lug, the face of the wheel hub, the hub adapter and the concentric back face on the spinner. -Dean |
Removed Post
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Found this video on YouTube of Dennis Olthoff demonstrating how to remove and tighten a knock off. Just thought it might be helpful if someone does a search regarding knock offs.
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