|
Power to fuse box question
I converted my 2638 car to a 140 amp multi wire alternator with an upgraded voltage regular that replaced the original. I also switched the amp meter for a Smith volt meter. The battery has a fresh charge and well connected. There is no battery switch in line between the battery and solenoid. The problem is no power is getting to the fuse box. There is power to the solenoid but does not make it to the fuse box under the steering wheel side of the dash. The lights, fan, wipers also will not work. Is there a main fuse between the solenoid and fuse box that might have blown during the installation? Any comments on what might cause this would be appreciated.
Thanks for the help, fecobra |
FE, did you connect both leads from your amp meter together? need to complete the circuit
|
Amp meter
I did not hook them together but I did reconnect the amp meter and it did not solve the problem. I will connect the two and try again. Thanks for the suggestion.
Don |
When you remove an AMP meter, you must permanently and securely connect the 2 wires originally on the back of the AMP meter together. All of the power must be routed thru an AMP meter to get a correct reading so those two wires are the main feed for the entire cars electrical users...There is also a master fuse on the drop down fuse panel. BTW...Your car is not wired to safely use a 140 Amp Alternator....Unless they have changed something I don't know about.
|
Wiring Reply
Thanks much for the info. This is very helpful. I am also anxious to get the wiring diagram I ordered from you. I understand from the others that they are a must have.
I will have at it tomorrow and connect the two amp meter wires and check the fuse you mentioned. Thanks again, Don |
Thanks for the kind words Don,
It was in the mail as promised...Probably arrive tomorrow or Friday... |
Not that hard to route a fresh lead and put in a protection.
|
New Lead
What is involved with running a new lead? I did change the voltage regulator to a higher amp capacity. Any info will be appreciated as I am tired of the low amp alternator and the pegging of the amp meter when the fans are running especially at night with the lights on. I am installing the volt meter and I probably will put an alternator light somewhere that is inconspicuous. I live in Houston and the fans are a must even in the afternoon when it gets to 100.
Thanks, Don |
Fixed
Thanks for the help,
There were two things going on. I connected the amp meter wires and had to replace the main 80 amp fuse at the fuse box. Had two variables going on at one time. I just needed to calm down and take a systematic approach along with the great wiring diagram. Don |
There ya go >!
|
| All times are GMT -7. The time now is 07:05 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
The representations expressed are the representations and opinions of the clubcobra.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Shelby American, any other replica manufacturer, Ford Motor Company. This website has been planned and developed by clubcobra.com and its forum members and should not be construed as being endorsed by Ford Motor Company, or Shelby American or any other manufacturer unless expressly noted by that entity. "Cobra" and the Cobra logo are registered trademarks for Ford Motor Co., Inc. clubcobra.com forum members agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s). Thank you for visiting clubcobra.com. For full policy documentation refer to the following link: