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Help needed with replacing parking brake pads
hi guys,
I need help changing the parking brake pads my Cobra (SPF 2369) – I can't get the rear pad out. I have loosened the tom bolt and the adjusting screw completely. I ground down one corner of the head of the tom bolt to allow it to sit next to the frame mount, doing so gave me 2mm more opening. If I could get the toe side to open more it might be doable, but I don't see a way to adjust it, it bottoms out on its mounting pin. I found Mark III service bulletin 0306mb on SCOF but my parking brake is mounted to the car differently than shown in the bulletin. My parking brake is mounted to a bracket that holds the differential and is bolted to the frame. The brake apparatus is affixed to the bracket by steel pins that are threaded into the mount without a way to remove them - I don't see a way to remove the apparatus without taking the rear end apart. Loosening the brake disk might help but I don't an easy way to get at the bolts. Am I missing something here? Are there thinner pads for newer SPFs? Phil Factor SPF# 2369 Mount Kisco, NY |
Phil: I'm not sure. Call Lance Standler at Superformance HQ 949-900-1950 if anyone would know, he will.
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You have a PM
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Or call Dennis Olthoff
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I am having the same issue with #2572. What solution did you find to remove & replace the parking brake pads without having to remove half the rear end?
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I also had the same problem. I ended up replacing just one side. I can now hold the car on a very slight incline with the brake. Looking for a better solution this year. Thankfully it is pretty flat here.
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I would speak with Dennis Olthoff. His guys set mine up (driveline version on 2440) and it will hold on a 30 degree angle or so. I find it rather remarkable. I don't use it much. I can't envision ever needing to replace pads, but.... whatever can happen will.
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Just did mine, to get the job completed I followed the following steps.
1. Remove the nut from the end of the parking brake rod, and slide the rod forward. 2. Next remove the three nuts from the bottom plate of the parking brake assembly and remove that plate. 3. Remove the top middle nut from the upper plate, this will allow the upper plate to be removed along with the adjustment screw still in place. 4. Now that all that stuff is out of the way remove the four large bolts that run through the universal joint, brake rotor assembly. Pull the drive shaft towards the transmission and then rotate the brake rotor upward out of the way. 5. Remove the old pads, replace with new ones and reverse the procedure for reassembly. Good luck the four large bolts are a pain to get off and put back on. This may not be the recommended procedure but, was the only solution that worked to get the rear pad out for me. |
This is the same procedure I used and although it was difficult getting the driveshaft up and out of the way and getting the disc out, it will work. However, I was not able to get the brake adjusted properly due to the thickness of the new pad in the rear of the caliper. When I tightened up the driveshaft bolts the disc was tight against the rear pad regardless of any adjustments. I solved the problem by resurfacing one of the old worn pads on a piece of 36 grit sand paper and using it in the rear pad position. I was able to use a new pad in the front position, which is very adjustable, then I adjusted according to the service bulletin and it works like a champ. Maybe the replacement pads are thicker than the original pads.
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Now I have my weekend project. Thanks for the advice.
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OK, took another crack at it again today after reading tall the posts. For the record, my chassis is #2572, and it does not have the same bracket/setup as indicated in the SPF bulletin.
Mine has a "C" shaped mounting plate (open end facing ground). There are two bolts connecting the bracket to the frame on either side mounted in a bushing. There are three bolts that connect the bracket to the differential; two bolts at the top of the bracket, and a third at the bottom. The parking brake assembly is connected to the bracket at two points; one bolt that goes through the assembly and into the differential; the other is threaded into the bracket, but has no means of removal. The two bolts w/ bushings are no problem. The bottom bolt cannot be backed out completely due to the rotor, but should come out far enough to remove the bracket. The top two bolts are almost impossible to get to. I broke one free, and should be able to get it out eventually; the other I can get a wrench on, but no leverage to break it free. Not enough room under car for pics. Does anyone else have a similar setup, and how did you replace the pads? Whoever designed this setup should be shot. Way too complicated for such a simple purpose. |
The parking brake on 2613 barely works. One of these days, I'm going to have to see if adjusting it would help. In the meantime, a wheel chock is a handy item to keep in the trunk...as long as you don't drive away without it. ;) :)
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At this point in time, I am seriously considering the cinder block & rope method :LOL:
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I replaced the front parking brake pad this weekend. Works pretty well now. As stated above, remove brake cable/rod and remove the other three bolts and nuts holding the backing plate in place. The threaded bolt that seems to control the "hinge angle" of the plate is where others seem to have a problem. It is a threaded bolt that can be turned by hand to unthread it enough to release it when the other retaining/adjustment bolt and nut is loosened. It had me wondering about how to remove it when I first tried this last year. I also found out that 2 new brake pads will not both fit into place and be free of the rotor. I replaced the front pad with a new one and the more easily replaced rear one with the better of the old set. Removing the drive shaft was the key. Remove the 4 retaining bolts by using an Allen wrench on the transmission side. It is a large size but can't remember how big. I did have to go and purchase a large Allen wrench kit because I only had up to the 1/4 inch size. Once rotor was out of the way, it was a simple replacement. The adjustment takes a while though. Who thought up this arrangement anyhow? Good luck to all who attempt this.
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I may have problems with my E-Brake, but I'll explain what I did to get 2 new pads in and hopefully others can evaluate and comment. The single bolt used to hold the brake pads in place has a spring on it and its my opinion that the purpose for this is to allow the screw to be backed off slightly to allow the pad to float and self adjust to the angle of the bracket to the rotor. Loosening the rear screw was the only way I could get the rear pad installed and the assembly adjusted so the rotor would rotate. I hope this doesn't come back to bite me.
Archrms, I dont think you should remove or loosen the U shaped mounting plate, the idea is to partially disassemble the e brake itself to make it easier to remove the 4 drive shaft bolts and swing the rotor out of the way to remove the pads and install new ones. I am not a mechanic, racer, or expert so please take any comments I make as potentially inaccurate, just trying to help others figure out a solution. |
Bumping this thread. Could anybody identify the e-brake pads needed and/or where to get them these days? This is for the driveshaft mounted e brake.
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