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Replaced the joints on 1535 with the RT units, it lightened the steering and reduced the bump steer. This is a good upgrade.
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Agreed. Mine steers better and is much more predictable than before. Worth the money (silver bump steer version).
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I want to come up with some way to actually measure the steering resistance change with the new ball joints. Seems like there should be a way to measure how much force it takes to turn the steering wheel. Any ideas? It doesn't have to be exact, just relative change between the old ball joints and the SV joints I hope to put in soon.
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put a torque wrench on the steering wheel nut. Excellent idea!!
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Bartruff,
You sure you didnt leave the girlfriends vibrator in the car:LOL: My pain pills are kickin in**) Sheet, wrong threadm hope he finds it!!!! |
You can also use a fish scale to measure the turning force required to turn the wheel.
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You realize that the turning force only decreases at speed?? At parking lot speed it didn't fell any different to me.
I want to see you hooking that torque wrench or fish scale up at 80 MPH??? :CRY: |
My new ball joints are being installed this week.
Will report back with results after alignment and balance work completed. |
Looks like these just move the bumpsteer problem. Looking at their numbers, bump steer is increased on compression but reduced on drop. Has anyone come up with a solution to significantly reduce overall bump steer?
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Ok, here's the poop.
My car has 8200 miles on the original ball joints (car #2932). Steering has always felt loose and every little bump would shake the wheel. Not to mention the front end vibration at 65-70 mph that could not be eliminated by any balance method (on or off the car). So, installed four of the mid grade ball joints form Cobra Valley and the car feels like it should have from day one. Steering is much smoother. Bumps seem to be damped better and the 65-70 mph shake is gone. I did have the car realigned and the fronts balanced while on the car after the installation. If your steering feels sloppy and jumpy, get the ball joints and dont look back. Well worth the expense in my opinion. I've been fighting this front end for two years. There is a solution and the ball joints are a work of art compared to the stock joints. |
I read their information & even with these high performance ball joints the "corrected geometry" still produces .999" 0f t/o @ 3" compression & 1.97" t/o in 3" droop. :eek::eek:
I don't see how a car can steer correctly with that much bump steer, unless you are always on glass smooth roads. I can't believe any quality manufacturer would build over 3" of bump steer into a high performance car. Seems to me the car would be darting every which way on a non-perfect road & when backing of at high speed the car would be very uncomfortable. J.M.O. Craig |
The suspension doesn't move that much, I have stock 350 Pounds/ inch springs. Most track rats have much stiffer springs up to and above 500 pounds per inch. 2500 pound car/4 = 625 pounds per corner static weight. Not much movement unless you are off roading.
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Oops sorry
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Craig, thats exactly my point. These geometry correcting ball joints essentially move the bump steer from drop to compression range. If there is bump steer, better it be in drop than compression, when your braking hard into a corner. And since Im running Olthoff springs and shocks, its unlikely Ill ever see 3 inches of drop.
I've never really heard of correcting bump steer with ball joints. Usually it's done by changing tie rod length and angle. Would like to hear if anyone has tried this on an SPF. |
I only used the 3" figure to demonstrate how horrifically bad the bump is in these cars.
Even at 1" .099comp. & .182 droop is very excessive. These cars definately need a shorter tie rod. The same result could be obtained by raising the rack a little, without spending 5-600$$ The proper cure would be a longer rack & shorter tie rod I think. J.M.O. Craig |
If you want your steering to feel more connected, solid and precise, and you don't like the steering wheel wiggle whenever you drive over a pebble in the road (not to mention the steering wheel vibration at 60-70 mph) then install these ball joints. They will make your street driving much more pleasurable. As for bump steer geometry or racing benefits, someone else needs to study them. All I know is they were well worth the money in my case.
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