Axle rebuild....CV Cross-reference?
 

Hey All,

So, for #408, I need to rebuild one of the axles thanks to some moron doing *very* shoddy work in the past. This is an 'early' car with the Ford 8.8" diff.

I could go into detail, but basically it needs an entirely new outer CV Joint. The parts currently on the outer are *not* correct for the car (some "substitutions" where made that were not correct, and the parts used were damaged by the 'mechanic').

I've called the folks at SPF and am unable to get any real help from them as they do not have parts in-stock for the older cars, and do not have any cross-reference information to share for getting the parts replaced locally (Mike was a great help on a lot of other stuff...don't get me wrong, but here they are unable to help me, which is fine).

So, my question to the field is: Can anyone give me a hint of which parts I can use as cross-reference for the outer CV joint for #408? I cannot use what is on there because it's incorrect. I need it to be right and safe....no exceptions.

Short of tearing apart the other side (which is fine and correct) to look for part numbers, I'm not sure how to proceed.

Yes, I've already placed a call to Olthoff Racing, but have not heard back yet.

Sorry for keeping this short....on a break at work and need to get back.

Thanks in advance...

Dan

Not an answer per se but cant you just use the ones they use in the newer cars?

Nope...newer cars use a different diff than the older ones (two actually). I asked...they don't work.

SPF apparently just has the newer axle in stock, not the older.

Thinking of getting a set custom made....$$$ though. *sigh*

Super Coupe
 

They should be the same CV joints used in the 1989 Thunderbird Super Coupe.

Makes sense, I have #298 but they have been upgraded so I cant even climb under there to give you the correct info. Im sure Olthoff will have the answer. i have also gotten some good advise from hillbank in CA on some of my issues, you might want to give them a call.

Thanks...yes, have talked to Hillbank. They could not help me out unfortunately.

I know the inner is a t-bird part, but was not sure on the outer. I'll see if I can get an outer from a t-bird and see if that will work.

Dennis is up in New York at the Glen. He'll be home next week.

Wouldn't the outer CV joint be the same as Thunderbird IRS?
Depending on what differential SPF used, the inner could be 28 or 31 spline but the outer joint is the same on Thunderbird/Cougar and IRS SVT Mustangs.
That's what my car uses.
Larry

Might want to call these guys.
I have no experience with them.


Ebay Link



Let us know.

Thanks Guys. That's the second referall to the driveshaft shop I've received, so I'll likely just go there and give them a pile of cash to make the problem go away for good.

As far as the rebuild, I was just trying to get this done locally and quickly. I'm not sure if it was t-bird or not...was looking for someone to give me a definitive answer, and from there it's just a matter of going to NAPA and buying the parts. They are 28 spline 1.2" shafts on both ends (not the 31 spline like the newer ones use).

I'll still go work out the cross reference...would be good info to have, but I'll likely just order a set of new axles and be done with it.

Here's some pics of the carnage (well, gooberage from some idiot mechanic or whatever)

Left and right side by side (left towards the rear). Right side is the one with the problem, left is fine (Well, now it is. I accidentally pulled the clamp off of the left inner CV boot when pulling the axle out of the diff, so you'll note that the clamp on the left inner boot is new...freshly replaced by me thanks to the local NAPA).
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/c...t/09b159f8.jpg

http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/c...t/75412022.jpg

http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/c...t/75412022.jpg
Note the very different boots on both sides. In fact, I'm pretty sure that the left side is newer than the right. It's clearly been replaced at some time.

Here's a pic of the left (good) side. Note the area where the boot secures..nice and clean and tight:
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/c...t/a79e039c.jpg

Here's the right (bad) side:
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/c...t/8320b66c.jpg

Turned slightly:
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/c...t/f3fb66c3.jpg

And more:
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/c...t/544f7394.jpg

And again comparing the good (left) with the bad (right) side:
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/c...t/ab835d7c.jpg

I don't have a pic of this, but when I took the retaining nut off of the bad side and pulled out the axle from the housing, an old bearing race fell out....it was being used as some kind of a spacer behind the outer wheel bearing. Holy hell!

Needless to say, I need this to be made 100% right. I can't go driving around at speed with goobered up marginal parts under the car. That is NOT how I operate.

Dear whoever worked on this car before me:
Next time you get the urge to work on anything, just let it go. You are a danger to yourself and others....

Thats pretty cool that SPF fabs their own hub carrier! First time I've actually seen one.
The outer joint looks like mine. I'm going to say they are standard Ford T-Bird from the looks of it. I still have an old one laying on my workbench.

FYI, The Driveshaft Shop built my axles. So another plug for them.

Larry

Something just came to mind... the bearing, if it's also Ford T-Bird, is split on the inner race. When you press the hub back together, you have to make sure to press the inner race firmly together. If it's not pressed together correctly, it came loosen up and get floppy.
While you have it apart, you might want to replace the bearings. Not that they are worn out but it's just such a pain to take apart.

Larry

Here's how I fixed it:

http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/c...t/a939da79.jpg

New axles from the Driveshaft Shop. Rated to 950hp. Done and done.

Your inner joints are slightly different looking but other than that, it looks like you and I have the same set up. Nice!
Larry