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Starter Fuse Blew?
As I was starting up it cranked, started, died. I hit the starter button right away and I heard a little snap and the starter ran no more. The lights still work, gauges ok, even the starter button light comes on when pushed, but no cranking or any sounds. I see the starter relay box. No smoke or anything else unusual. I think I'll start checking fuses. Not sure if the starter even has a fuse. Any suggestions?:CRY: As usual, all suggestions for fix are welcome!
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Checked all the fuses and they all look good. Now what?
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Possible mechanical failure in the button itself. -- do you have a test light / multi meter. --
the start button should be providing 12V to the contact on the starter solenoid that controls battery juice in the starter - pictures are the next needed item --- Steve |
This is a guess because I'm not familiar with the SPF setup. But as you say there is a starter relay, this is what I would expect.
Starters need a lot more current to work than gauges. A poor battery cable connection can allow enough current flow to operate small things, but not the starter. Check both ends of the positive and negative cables for good connections. |
Tommy laid it out really well. If your relay is in an easy place to get to check the voltage from the switch to that winding. Those relays do have a tendency to burn the contacts in them as they pull a good sized charge when you first operate them. Also I have had relays that the winding went open on. If you want to eliminate the starter quickly and have a heavy lead, just clip 12 volts right onto the input to the starter and see if it turns over. Make sure the car is in neutral if you do this.
Ron ;) |
You said "...and I heard a little snap..."
Was this from under the dash or from under the hood? (mechanical sounding or like a electrical short sounding snap?) (edit) I note that you said "Starter Button" Is the button rated for the cars actual current draw thru it? You could have toasted it. I assume you have power everywhere else in the car...headlights, wipers, horn, fans, etc? If you have no other power on the car, you may have popped the main fuse on the drop down fuse panel... It is an 80 AMP fuse...(and the "snap" sound would have been from under the dash) If you do have power everywhere except at the starter, it could be the starter solenoid on the firewall (if you still have it in place) or the solenoid on the starter itself....(and the "snap" sound would have been from under the hood) |
When it first happened: power everywhere but nothing happens when start button pressed except button red light comes on.
Checked voltages: I measured voltages and am clueless about what to expect but seemed OK. Removed one wire from Neutral Safety Starter Inhibitor Relay, replaced it. No change. Visited Bob's SPF to measure voltages: Bob's SPF set up different & Bob said rock the car while in gear & maybe the starter is stuck. Back to my SPF: Tried to start in gear and out of gear; now everything dead but horn and start button red light. Rocked back and forth in gear. No change. Checked neutral starter inhibitor wire. No change until about 3rd time I turned on the ignition key, I had power back to dash. When I turn on key there is a soft little buzz from under the dash. Thought it was the neutral start inhibitor relay, but can't feel any vibration from buzz. Good news? At least now it starts! I don't know what really changed. Suspect it will happen again. I need to find the source of the noise when I turn on the key. Have to give Bob the credit for now! |
The buzz from under the dash is most likely the low brake fluid buzzer, check the brake fluid level - soon.
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...ward: This sounds weird, but also check the starter cable to see if it's broken. Had this issue on the MGB from hell also. Intermittent starting. I found it accidentally, pulled on it and it broke. Possibly you have cable that's about 99% broke thru..
Bob |
Double check your battery terminal connections under the battery cover in the trunk. I just experienced a similar situation where the starting was intermittant but the lights were fine. It turned out to be a broken positive terminal lug making intermittant contact...just touching isn't enough of a path to allow enough current to flow for the starter but enough for lights.
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I checked the brake fluid level and it was fine. I checked the connection to the starter and it was fine. I checked the positive battery post connection......hmm, a little lose! This seems to be a significant find. I fooled with it last December when I hooked up my battery tender and I thought I got it tight back then, but things change. Thanks again to everyone with their ideas for repairs and checks!
Funny, When I look at my firewall mounted starter solenoid one side has NO heavy wires and the other has two heavy wires. One going to the starter and the tother going to back toward the rear of the car. How can that be? [IMG]C:\Users\Ward L\Pictures\2011-09-17 Electrical 9-17-11 006.jpg[/IMG] |
There are many different way to wire the starter. The Solenoid on the firewall is not really required since most modern starters are supplies with one.
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Disregard. I misread your post.
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