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SPF1061 07-30-2013 03:52 PM

electrical system dead
 
Turn key - absolutely nothing happens. Won't crank, no lights, no horn, no fans, no nothing. Behaves as if the battery is not connected. I have charged the battery and it is good. I have checked the battery ground to the frame just below the battery box and it is good. Ground connection from the starter to the frame is good. Any suggestions on what/where to check next. Is there any sort of major relay or main fuse that could cause this? Ignition switch bad?
Thanks for any help.

jhv48 07-30-2013 06:04 PM

Check the hot leads on the firewall mounted solenoid. Use a continuity tester to see if the hot lead is in fact hot.

BDR446 07-30-2013 07:10 PM

Had the same issue a few months ago...turned out to be faulty ignition switch. First check would be to turn key past the on position and go as far as the key will turn and see if the dash starts coming to life. If that doesn't do anything try bypassing switch.

Blas 07-30-2013 07:42 PM

We are looking into this issue offline. Since he has no headlights or brake lights, the problem is the main power feed from the battery. He had already replaced the battery, and verified the main chassis ground at the battery. So we are now checking for power track, first at the firewall mounted solenoid, then for power at the main fuse, then thru the fuse. Next will be the feed to the AMP meter, and thru the meter.
On a SPF you always have brake lights and headlights and fans when the car is not running. (With a few exceptions on selected chassis #'s on the brake lights - but that is another story) We'll follow the current path and find the fault. He will post his findings....

SPF1061 07-30-2013 08:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blas (Post 1255340)
We are looking into this issue offline. Since he has no headlights or brake lights, the problem is the main power feed from the battery. He had already replaced the battery, and verified the main chassis ground at the battery. So we are now checking for power track, first at the firewall mounted solenoid, then for power at the main fuse, then thru the fuse. Next will be the feed to the AMP meter, and thru the meter.
On a SPF you always have brake lights and headlights and fans when the car is not running. (With a few exceptions on selected chassis #'s on the brake lights - but that is another story) We'll follow the current path and find the fault. He will post his findings....

Blas - you are totally a knight is shining armor! Pulled the amp meter and worked the spade connections on and off the terminals a few times. Bingo! That puppy is now hot as a firecracker! I have some Caig Dexit at my shop.
I'll polish the terminals lightily with a dollar bill and put a light spray of the contact cleaner on the connections before I reassemble tomorrow. Success.
Thank you, sir!

Blas 07-30-2013 09:12 PM

Excellent. Should the problem return. I would remove the heat shrink tubing on the two wires connecting to the AMP meter and check the crimps on the metal connectors to the wires. Since you jiggled them, you may have temporarily re-established contact between a bad wire and its female connector end. You can easily replace the shrink tubing on the wire and connector....
But you are most likely ok....
Blas

03BeastCharmer 10-04-2017 11:39 PM

Bump as I think I’m having similar issue. Went for a drive Saturday came home and turned car off in driveway to go open garage came back and car would not start. No light or fuel pump when I turn the key. I can get 12.5 v at the regulator up on the firewall as well as on the alternator and starter. I’m confused on where the main fuse is by looking at manual I got with the car as I don’t see it in the fuse area inter the dash in “area 4” I have a 2007 SPF.


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