| Voyager |
10-26-2013 07:39 AM |
Superformance hood removal
2 Attachment(s)
Going to do some extended work in the engine bay. Any known issues with removing the hood on a Superformance (2920)? Which bolts are normally removed? The 3 that attach to the hood or the 1 under the chassis nose? Concerned about awkward reinstallation, hood alignment issues, fiberglass damage, etc.
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| Shootnride |
10-26-2013 07:54 AM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by Voyager
(Post 1269378)
Going to do some extended work in the engine bay. Any known issues with removing the hood on a Superformance (2920)? Which bolts are normally removed? The 3 that attach to the hood or the 1 under the chassis nose? Concerned about awkward reinstallation, hood alignment issues, fiberglass damage, etc.
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I had mine off a couple of months ago. I removed the three bolts on each side that attach the hood to the hinge then taped the hinges back out of the way. I figured it would be much easier when it came time to put it back on. It really takes two people to remove the hood.
Good luck
Ted |
On each of the flanges that connect to the hood, drill a small hole in each flange. Drill thru the flange into the hood to use as a reference point. You can use a small nail to line up the holes in flange and hood for reassembly. Don't drill too deep!
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| scootter |
10-26-2013 08:52 AM |
Mine may be a bit different as I have 1436. I removed the last bolts from underneath the car with the hood closed, then lifted the hood off. When I reinstalled it, I set the hood on with it closed, got it lined up, then put the bolts in from the bottom.
Scott
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| SunDude |
10-26-2013 09:01 AM |
Could you not simply use low-tack painter's tape to mark where the hinges are located...?
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| Shootnride |
10-26-2013 09:11 AM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by SunDude
(Post 1269384)
Could you not simply use low-tack painter's tape to mark where the hinges are located...?
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When I put my hood back on, I simply used the stripes to locate the hood properly. Mis-aligned stripes would really stand out. Of course, if you don't have stripes on your car, then the painters tape would be a great idea.
Ted |
| Mark IV |
10-26-2013 09:25 AM |
We put tape around the edges of the bracket where it bolts to the hood. Use that to align when re-installing. The stripes will guide the left-right alignment but not the fore-aft.
Helps to have two people.
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| Voyager |
10-26-2013 11:30 AM |
1 Attachment(s)
Good stuff. Thanks. I’ll take the hood off at the 3 bolt connection.
Now that I’ll be able to see & maneuver around the engine, time to go find a tutorial on checking valve lash so I can figure out what is making a tapping sound. Started last night, but couldn’t even find TDC.
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| STEVE-O |
10-26-2013 11:52 AM |
If you dont want the hassle of removing the hood, you can cut a piece of 2x4 to the correct length, put some padding on the ends and prop it between the hood and engine bay opening. This pushes the hood open another 4-5 inches or so.
I've had space issues with the normal hood prop rod but when opened further with the 2x4, I've had enough room to work on changing alternator belt, changing plugs, distributor cap/rotor or valve cover gaskets.
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| BLUBUL8 |
10-26-2013 03:47 PM |
I recommend you check the torque on your exhaust header bolts at the heads first if you haven't already. This can cause a tapping sound. I had this on 2893 which was completed just prior to yours.
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| madmaxx |
10-27-2013 01:54 PM |
I would unbolt mine from under the car (I have a 4 post lift). Then just lift the hood off.
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| Voyager |
10-28-2013 06:35 AM |
1 Attachment(s)
Wife and I took the hood off at the 3 bolt connection. Went ok. I'll grab a neighboor for installation.
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| STEVE-O |
10-28-2013 12:03 PM |
What type of cover is that surrounding the engine bay? Did you buy it to fit or make one? Looks nice for keeping everything protected while working on the car!
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| Bernica |
10-28-2013 01:53 PM |
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| Voyager |
10-29-2013 09:05 AM |
Yeah, think I ordered it from Finshline. Works well, but takes up garage storage space (which is in short supply).
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